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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 102.7K
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Tim - glad to hear of success! The new TSP coil - does it have a "nameplate" primary OHMs rating? It will be a clue as to the design of the electronics in the distributor.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 266,
Visits: 3.5K
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Steve, PROBLEM SOLVED .........YIPPIE SKIPPIE !!!!! Replaced the almost 4 year old HEI distributor from TSP (Top Street Performance) and installed a E-CORE Ignition Coil JM6930 R from TSP. Did a road and idle test and the '56 fired right up like it should. Thanks for you support and time, Tim Hot 'n Humid, FL 33706
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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 266,
Visits: 3.5K
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Steve, Big help with problem. Thanks again Tim Florida 33706
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
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Tim - I found the diagram that shows the stock wiring to the coil on my '56. The solenoid has four posts - and one small post is the incoming "start" command from the dash - the other has the "jumper" I found was going to the coil. This was in the original wiring harness I dissected to invent my own wiring harness. This same post is used on the late seventies electronic Duraspark II to provide a starting signal to the control box through the "white" wire. When live the box retards the ignition 10º for starting purposes - works well if you are using the Ford controller.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
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Steve, Will do that test and advise. Thanks, Tim Florida
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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Visits: 102.7K
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Tim - it occurs to me that a "mystery" I encountered might be tripping you. The start position of my t-bird dash switch did not result in power to the coil. In "run" all was well - but turning to "start" the coil was being powered by a jumper from the solenoid on the firewall. So a quick spin of the engine and releasing the key would (sometimes) make the engine "catch" and run. But this wasn't consistent. The wiring diagram I sent earlier doesn't necessarily show this Ford type of switch - instead maybe a GM version where "start" also powers the coil. On the t-bird this "jumper" from the solenoid also entered the circuit in such a way as to eliminate the resistor and directly energize the coil - an extra energy burst that would not damage the old oil filled coil. You could check for this by lifting the heavy lead down to the starter motor and looking for coil power with a meter - when turning the switch to "start"..
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 266,
Visits: 3.5K
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Steve, Going to order the external ignition coil. I've also ordered an other new HEI distributor. When they are all here, I install and let you know. Again, Big Thanks, Tim Florida 33706
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 102.7K
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The resistor will help lower the coil temp - but it will be getting hot too. The design of the HEI chip is to dump amps and the resistor will be taking some of it. I tried a heavy duty Mallory resistor on one of my systems and it "died" at an early age. Why not just get a low resistance high amp, heat resistant coil and run it? The energy eaten by the resistor doesn't go to the plug - and the energy stored in the coil fires it. So performance of the spark producing system is reduced as the total resistance rises. Here are the coil energy traces of a low resistance coil and a higher one. The area "under the curve" is indicative of the stored energy that goes into the spark...... 
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Tim Quinn
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 Years Ago
Posts: 266,
Visits: 3.5K
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Steve, Had an e-coil like that on my last car, never had any problems, In the mean time, would a ballast resistor help to keep the new Accel coil cooler ? What do you think ? Tim in Florida
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 102.7K
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