As I pulled into a machine shop, here in West Central Florida to discuss balancing the dive shaft, the '56 Ford Fairlane stalled. Went inside of shop for 10 to 15 minutes. Came out and jumped in car and it failed to start, popped the hood and checked wiring, every thing was where it should be. The battery was strong and
cranking. The coil was very very hot. We put a bag of ice on the coil to cool it off...........no luck, won't start. Put new coil on.........still would
not start. Did a check for spark at the coil and at two spark plugs. No spark.
 Called towing company that showed up 45 minutes later. Just before the tow truck  driver prepared to tow the car, I decided to see 
if it would start.....................and...........it started just like it always did. Drove 20 miles home with no problems.
What happened ? Anybody been down this road before ? Also, I installed an modern electronic distributor and a Summit carb,
Tim
Hot 'n Humid Florida
33706

hi i have struck similar problems in the summer and it can be fuel vapourising in the heat sink period.can be frustrating good luck

Check the locations of your fuel lines. Route them away from heat sources as much as possible. Back in the way back times we used to put a clothes pin on the line and cure vapor lock. Don't ask me the science for it but as I recall it worked.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

He said in the original post that he had no spark so looking at the fuel system is not the answer.

You say you have a modern electronic distributor, what kind/brand.   Did you check for 12 volts to whatever module the distributor uses.

Many electronic devices do not like heat,  fill us in on what distributor you have and what testing you have done so far

Well, fuel lines won't affect spark I don't think. The coil being very hot is to me an indicator. If you are sure that the ignition wasn't firing, and your electronic ignition is designed to run without a ballast resistor, I would try installing about a 1 ohm ballast. This will take some of the heat off the coil and the electronics in the distributor.  If it runs OK, just leave it on there. The sad part is if it corrects the problem you might never know it because the problem occurs so seldom. 

I was replying to Blocky comment on fuel vaporization as a new post and didn't connect it to the previous ones.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I hate it when a problem comes and goes. Tow the car back to the house and the damn thing starts. 

I chased a similar problem on my buddy's car for a week before I found it. Turned out to be a bad coil wire. Make sure your coil matches your ignition.  You may or may not need a resistor. You could have a bad wire or connection.  If you are getting spark and the car won't start, look at the fuel system.  The last thing I would start messing with would be the carburetor.

Big thanks Phil,
My brother said the same thing about a coil wire.

Also going to check fuel lines. Kinda like the old days with the flat heads "VAPOR LOCK".

You  are more than likely correct. It was the HEAT !!!  On the expressway it runs cool, no electric fan needed.
In the city, going from light to light, I turn on the electric fan.

From the time i stopped 'til the time it started, it was vert cool even though I was parked on a black top
parking lot at 11:30 AM on August 04 and not a cloud in the sky. IT WAS HOT, DAMN HOT !!!!!

Thanks for your input, everyone responding has been helpful,
Hot Time Tim
Hot 'n Humid Central, FL

you are correct he did mention spark.