I'd go with Ted's advice. But I've got a US Radiator Desert model in a box upstairs, out of my 55 bird. I can send a couple pictures with a tape measure across it if needed. Note: "up stairs in a box", because there's an aluminum BeCool in the car now. It doesn't overheat.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Thanks Miker for the offer but I have pretty much convinced myself that the T bird won’t work. I am going to try the Champion even though it is a 3 row not the 2 I was wanting.
Thanks to everyone for their input.

Duane

Been thinking about this so I’ll put in front of how I solved my problem. In 1955 my dad bought a new Sunliner and in 56 a new Victoria. We never ever had a cooling problem with either. They were in town and also cross country cars. They had no shrouds and the 55 272 4 barrel had a 3 blade fan. Both were never altered/hot rodded in any way. Exhaust tips were always black. I believe today’s solutions must consider today’s fuels. My exhaust is clean and I run dual quads. My in town mpg is between 11-12.

I bought a US Radiator for my 56 yblock 7 years ago in Vernon Ca. It was the 2nd from the top. Copper/brass they offered 4 models. I thought it was the problem with my cooling creeping during stop lights. It always went down when I started moving but since I lived in the OC in SoCal you are always at stop lights. Helped but not fixed. Plugged the bypass with 1/8” hole, helped but not fixed. Added 5 blade fan, helped but not fixed. Bought and installed a fan shroud from a place in Texas, helped but not fixed. Installed 302 Ford Mustang smaller water pump pulley, fixed. Green bird here helped me with this.

My problem was water was not moving enough at idle; ez to see with cap off and the level down about an 1” where I run it anyway because I do not have a recovery system or feel I need it.

Probably didn’t need any of the other fixes. When I bought the new radiator I added the trans cooler which I needed when I upgraded the transmission to a Cruise-o-matic. Now I have a nice spare radiator 2 row in a box.

Good luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I am interested in your comment about the US radiator with the 4 row core.   What do you mean by it is too restricted?

My experience is or was almost the same as Dry Lakes except I never got my issue fixed. To answer your question (to restricted) and a little history. Built the car on a tight budget bought a new radiator from auto city classic. 14” two speed fan with shroud. It started leaking in the core. No one would work on it because it was aluminum. Research and radiator shop said Aluminum radiator no good. “get a copper and brass it can be repaired “ so I ended up getting a US Radiator 4 core . that was what was recommended for a 312 with automatic Air etc. car would be fine at idle and in town up to about 55/60 mph 180/185 with 180 t stat the faster you went the higher the temp at 225 Had to turn off the ac and slow down to 50 mph to get it back down below 200. Started trying all the recommendations bigger fan smaller pulley change t stat flowkooler water pump etc. Flushed the system 3 different times used cooling additives. Nothing fixed it so I came to the conclusion I had a cracked block or head so tried a quick fix sealant put it in and guess what it worked for about 300 miles then back to over heating at highway speeds. I decided to scrap the 312 and build a new motor. Conversations with my mechanic (Ted) who I have the utmost confidence in and  other along with Internet research says that there is not enough air getting through the radiator with the ac condenser and 4 cores. TO RESTRICTED.So I bought a 3 core Champion (highly recommended) and will try that. I wanted a two core but  Champion doesn’t make one for the Victoria . 

Duane

cooling systems are the most easy to do the incorrect improvement.,number of cores is not always the solution.ther is a common error down sizing the by pass  will create cavitation which creates poor flow when stat closed,the heads will create high temp and guages will not react as designed. y blocks have the temp guage in the wrong spot,it should be eng side of the stat where the heater pipe is. now you can get a acurate temp  of the engine,  next is the rad ,dont go cheap  on such a critical part of the system. the top of rad should be hotter than the bottom. under sever temp(ambient)
you need 10 degree difference  top to bottom. if rad tubes ar to small(restricting flow) engine will over heat.  with proper presure cap and therm 212 at temp gauge is not over heating(temp sender at location just behind therm.  bird owners have a real issue with the dumb spacer so water pump is prone to cavitation as well as never designed for air cond.
 it would help all with heating issues to study the design of cooling engines with coolest,finally just water is never the answer,any freez or  other adetive to control erosion and cavitation is a must

Duane, As a suggestion call US Radiator in Vernon Ca. and asked for a suggestion telling them what you’ve tried and your dilemma. I have the heavy duty and there is a Optima above that and I agree both of them may need more air flow than can come thru the condenser mounted in front. There standard shows in their ad photo less fins on the tubes and maybe that’s the answer.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.