PART#         ROCKER ARM RATIO                  VALVE DIAMETER                    PUSH ROD LENGTH (Effective)

EAN                54-55 jamb nut     1.43:1                EXHAUST all 1.51"                1954-55 3/16" radius ball 8.11"

ECG 6564     56 jamb nut            1.54:1                INTAKE 1954 1.64"              1956-59  3/16" radius ball 7.98"

ECG 6564    57 self locking      1.54:1                 INTAKE 1955-56 1.78"        1960-64  3/16" radius ball 8.11"

5751066      58-64 self locking 1.43:1                INTAKE 1957-59 1.93"

                                                                                    INTAKE 1960-64 1.64"
as always, thanks Ted.
the above is clipped from that site, so it looks like the rocker style (with or without the self locking feature) makes the difference, weather you use the longer or shorter push rod. Assuming all the valves are the same length, as the exhaust valves are all the 1.51" and this does not recommend different push rods for intake or exhaust I guess this would be the case. So according to this, it looks like I would use the longer ones.  

See if this link to John Mummert’s site helps.
http://www.ford-y-block.com/rockerarm.htm

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have not heard that before, thanks for the tip

Thanks, I have read the stock ones were weak

Thanks, That is what I needed!

This has come up before but some of the cups on the replacement push rods are smaller than stock so the adjuster rides part way down on the rim of the cup, not the bottom and can result in broken cups.  Check your adjuster against the cup of what ever replacement push rod you use.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Removing the baffles changes the geometry.   New push rods are worth the investment.  I have a box of bent and broken stock push rods to prove it.  I found them in engines I disassembled laying in the lifter galley

Use the length that puts the adjusters closest to the middle of their travel.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks, the only real mod to this motor will be the cam. I don't know what I will go for but it will have just a little more lift to it. So yes, I have heard that these push rods are not the strongest But I'm running stock type push rods in the other 292 that is in the car now and they have held in there for over 11,000 miles, the cam in that motor is close to what I will run in this motor. If I don't get a good answer by the time the motor gets together I will have to reach out to Ted, John or Tim, thanks.

Here is my two cents worth and that is all it’s worth. It has been a while since I investigated the same issue you have.as I recall John Mummert site list two or three different pushrod lengths depending upon what cylinder heads you have.check it out. If your motor is stock you will be OK if modified I suggest getting professional advice such as Ted or John Mummert or Tim McMaster. I also recommend new pushrods as they are generally stronger and bigger than stock, less likely to bend or break.

Duane