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Mummert (Clay Smith) 270 Cam

Posted By MattsY 4 Years Ago
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MattsY
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Just got done degreeing my cam and the card shows an intake centerline of 106 and exhaust 110. I'm coming up with 110 intake and 113.5 exhaust. Basically, 4 degrees advanced. Does anyone know if these cans are ground that way or did I screw up somewhere? Either way, I'm going to leave it alone. 4 degrees advanced should work well.
Joe-JDC
Posted 4 Years Ago
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That sounds retarded, not advanced.  Better check your paperwork again and study that degree wheel information.  My brain is tired tonight, but I believe I am correct.  Joe-JDC



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Robs36Ford
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Degree wheel not quite at zero?
Ensure your piston stop is far enough below deck to get a solid stop in order to get your degree wheel zeroed. Do not use a dial gauge to find zero.

Or you just need a rest :-)


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MattsY
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Jeez! I'm the backwards one, that does regard the cam now doesn't it. I'll have a look again tomorrow. Thanks guys!
MattsY
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Does this look right? I count 12 links, but now I'm second guessing myself.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/84f7fa70-9429-4502-960e-931f.jpg
Ted
Posted 4 Years Ago
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First verify that the TDC on the wheel is indeed correct.  That’s the baseline for all your measurements.
 
With the cam card showing 106° for the intake and 110° for the exhaust, then that indicates that the camshaft is ground on 108° lobe centers.  No matter how the camshaft is installed in the engine, that 108° number is not going to change assuming the camshaft is indeed ground on a 108° lobe centerline.  The numbers you provided indicates that the camshaft is ground on ~112° lobe centers.  My first question is how repeatable are your numbers?  If they don’t repeat, then you have error creeping into your methodology.  I have found that it helps to put the stem of the dial indicator on the edge of the lifter rather than in the pushrod divot.  Once you get the numbers repeating themselves, also check the cam timing on a cylinder on the opposite bank.  If you are checking the lobes on #1, then move over to cylinder #6 as that shares the same TDC on the timing wheel as cylinder #1.  Doing this will validate both your checking methodology and also insure that the camshaft was ground with the correct lifter bank angles.
 
If your numbers are indeed correct, then the camshaft is 2° advanced, just not ground on the lobe centerline as indicated on the cam card.   The lobe centerline not matching the spec card does make it look like you have some checking errors.  I’ll suggest doing a recheck at this point.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Lord Gaga
Posted 4 Years Ago
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You couldn't GIVE me a Clay Smith cam !!!
Stay with the "Camfather" ISKY!

"FREE SAMPLE"
Ted
Posted 4 Years Ago
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MattsY (6/20/2020)
Does this look right? I count 12 links, but now I'm second guessing myself.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/84f7fa70-9429-4502-960e-931f.jpg


Hoosier Hurricane (6/20/2020)
I'm sure it is a misprint, but to be sure there should be 12PINS between the dots on the sprockets, not 12 links.  Only should b e 6 links.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


MattsY
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That's what I meant, 12 pins. It looks to be correct to me. I'll recheck with a fresh set of eyes today.
Jack Groat
Posted 4 Years Ago
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I agree that it is 4 crankshaft degrees advanced which should have the effect of reducing duration a tweak, but not enough to be concerned.

I would like to add that I have some experience in camshaft design and manufacture.  Very, very important is camshaft break-in.  The worst thing you can do is spending a lot of time, or any time indexing your cam with normal valve springs.  If you have to do it, do it with a push rod and no valve springs.  Spend little time adjusting valve lash.  Low speeds are BAD!  And the slowest slow speed is turning engine over by hand.  Get it started and stay above 3000 rpm for an hour, then adjust your valve lash.  


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