Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
Posts: 5,
Visits: 3.7K
|
The vacuum actuated control valve on my ‘55 Thunderbird seems to have a coolant leak. At first I thought the threads in the Blue Thunder intake manifold were at fault but after speaking to John Mummert he suggested that the valve itself was at fault. My question is this: which is the smarter move - purchase another new outsourced after-market manufactured valve (which is what is presently leaking) or purchase a NOS valve on EBay ( which may have a compromised 50 year old internal rubber flap)? Anyone have any experience with the NOS valve??
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 285.6K
|
When I rebuilt my TBird engine two summers ago I bought a new repro control valve. Mine leaked as well. Living in Florida we rarely use the heater so I removed the valve and disconnected the heater. I've thought about reinstalling it. If I ever do, I will use the Casco mechanical conversion kit. It's part # 18495MK.
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 hours ago
Posts: 1.6K,
Visits: 124.9K
|
If you buy a NOS unit, be sure it will hold vacuum, or else what’s the point? Believe it or not, some ancient parts with rubber components WILL sometimes still work like new, and the original/OEM T-Bird heater controls were fairly sophisticated for the day (the bi-metal grasshopper vacuum valve will automatically maintain temp. setting).
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.6K,
Visits: 328.9K
|
Mine failed about 6 years ago and I went to an Auto parts store near me an (independent) and he had the part by Standard. Funny mine only leaked when I turned the heater on. When off it didn’t. I just needed an idiot light sender for the oil and he had that too..
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
|
Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
Posts: 5,
Visits: 3.7K
|
In reading the replies to my inquiry I am now wondering if anyone knows what is inside the silver disk that sits atop of the control valve. Is it a bimetallic vacuum vale or a rubber one?? I may be wrong in thinking there is any rubber component in there at all.. and if that is the case a NOS may be the way to go..
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 days ago
Posts: 485,
Visits: 20.4K
|
The bimetal component mentioned is part of the control in your dash. It regulates the amount of vacuum that goes to the control valve on the intake manifold, which in turn regulates the amount of water flowing through the heater core. There is not bimetal in the valve on your intake manifold.
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.5K,
Visits: 469.1K
|
I replaced mine with a manual control valve. CASCO sells a kit for the change over. The manual valve is located behind and sort of under the fan.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312 Forever Ford Midland Park, NJ
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 3.0K,
Visits: 8.7K
|
I had 3 different valves in my Sedan leak or not work. Finally soldered it and used a manual from Ebay. Works and doesn't leak.
Frank/RebopBristol, In ( by Elkhart) 
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
Posts: 85,
Visits: 3.8K
|
If you don't mind non original I used one of these inline on my 54. It is no where nearly as good at regulating temp as the one on the intake, but it will turn the heater on and off and regulate somewhat. It is just not as sensitive to the change in vacuum. They make one normally open and one normally closed, which I think is the one required. I keep thinking that someone will start making good ones (B5A) again one day. https://nostalgicac.com/heater-control-valve-vacuum-operated.html
Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas
When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn!
|