I agree with Ted especially the use of the Best Company’s head gaskets. I run 14-1 and 13-1 racing engines and they are the only ones that have used that never failed. I also use 1/2” studs in one engine torqued to 100 psi in the fine threads and 7/16” on the other torqued to 75psi. None are re-torqued.
Our typical 8 to 9-1 engines do not see the stresses of higher compression or competition where definitely more care is taken.
Joe-JDC definitely has more knowledge on fasteners than I will ever have and military specs are there for a reason. I would trust his information. Following the manufactures recommended procedures are also very important for longevity. If the head gaskets call for a re-torque I would follow what Joe has outlined. JD

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

JOE, ONE MORE QUESTION FOR YOU.  TO MAKE EACH HEAD BOLT ACCESSABLE FOR RETORQUE, DO I HAVE TO REMOVE VALVE ROCKER ASSEMBLY AND ALSO REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO GET AT ALL 10 HEAD BOLTS?  ALSO I WILL FOLLOW YOUR PROCEDURE TO BACK OFF EACH HEAD BOLT ONE AT A TIME AND RETORQUE THEM TO 75 FT LBS USING THE  PROPER SEQUENCE AND ONE PULL METHOD.  AM I CORRECT ON ALL POINTS?

First, let me say there is the shop way, and there is the normal way to re-torque these bolts.  The shop way is to use a "crowfoot" socket with the rocker assemblies in place.  Quick and "good enough".  Then there is the "double check myself" so I only have to do this once, way.  If you feel you need to re-torque the head bolts, then yes it would be much easier to remove the rocker assemblies and exhaust manifold to gain access to the bolts.   However, the exhaust tins have slots in them to allow a socket to reach the lower head bolts with an extension.  If you need to use a swivel to reach a bolt, then remove the exhaust manifold.  Swivels will not typically give you a correct torque reading because of flexing/bending.  Extensions should be kept to a minimum if you use them on a torque wrench.  They change the value as well if you don't keep them perfectly straight on the bolt head.  Most of Ford's manuals say to add 5# torque to a rebuild on head bolts.  If the threads were chased prior to assembly, and oil was used, I would use the original torque value on the re-torque.  

Check the valve lash, it should not have changed much if any.  Joe-JDC


JDC