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replaced the solenoid(made in tywan) appears to have corrected issue. as i had terms 2 (small 2) hooked up to give coil full voltage i think that terminal had a minute leak giving the dura spark enough to keep engine running when it slowed enough that alt. was no longer charging i could kill engine at idea.??
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I have a one wire alternator and have not experienced this. How do you have it wired up?
Durham Missouri
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I don't understand the diode thing? I've used the one wire alt and it just has ONE wire from the alt to the + terminal on the starter solenoid, nothing goes to the ignition switch..
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years ago I read an article on how to put an early 70s gm alternator on my 56 ford.it was an easy swap but you have to put a diode on the wire that goes to the ignition switch.the switches back then weren't isolated like they are in more modern cars like the 60s on up. what happens is electicity runs through the switch so the car keeps running even though you shut the key off.I went to radio shack back then and bought one fairly cheap and it has worked fine for 10 years or so without any problems hope this helps.
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How does that diode harness work on a 1 wire alternator?
Lawrenceville, GA
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thanks will get 1 cliff
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using a single wire delco alternator.engine idls at 600 it will stop at idl (when alt stops charging) on warm up with choke on high idle won't stop. i cant figure out how the system leaks to keep running when alt charging. replaced off with new that was new 2 months ago ???.
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Is your gas really old? The common causes for run-on are lean fuel mixture, poor grade fuel, and too high an idle speed. Too hot spark plugs (non stock) are another possible cause.
1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes. 1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip! 1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box. 1976 Chev Camaro RS LT Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1
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Need a diode in the circuit per Lord Gaga. Had to do that when I put a GM alternator on my antique two cylinder John Deer tractor.
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