I am planning to remove the coil springs from my ’55 T-bird. The engine is out and jacking up on the lower control arm does not compress the spring, it just lifts the car. The upper control arm rubber bumper is non-existent; the arm is resting hard against the stop. 

I want to replace the control arm bushings before installing the engine. Only way I can imagine this happening is with coil spring compressors to remove and then they remain until the engine is installed to compress the springs so the upper bumpers are not destroyed. Are there tricks that I am overlooking? 

When a car is jacked up the upper bumpers must rest on the stop, I am guessing my last ride in the bird, 35 years ago, when the front wheels landed the original bumpers blew-up. Is it okay to have the bumpers pinned against the stop if no harsh movements happen until the engine is installed?


Also, I think that stock springs will be too tall since I have reduced weight by aluminum intake, timing cover and C4 trans, have read about cutting 2 coils or Aerostar springs.





.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci

I am planning to remove the coil springs from my ’55 T-bird. The engine is out and jacking up on the lower control arm does not compress the spring, it just lifts the car. The upper control arm rubber bumper is non-existent; the arm is resting hard against the stop. 
I want to replace the control arm bushings before installing the engine. Only way I can imagine this happening is with coil spring compressors to remove and then they remain until the engine is installed to compress the springs so the upper bumpers are not destroyed. Are there tricks that I am overlooking? 
Not that I am aware of.  If there is some way to tie down the car so it doesn't lift it will work, otherwise spring compressors are the only way
When a car is jacked up the upper bumpers must rest on the stop, I am guessing my last ride in the bird, 35 years ago, when the front wheels landed the original bumpers blew-up. Is it okay to have the bumpers pinned against the stop if no harsh movements happen until the engine is installed?
Should not hurt anything - replace when the engine is back in

Also, I think that stock springs will be too tall since I have reduced weight by aluminum intake, timing cover and C4 trans, have read about cutting 2 coils or Aerostar springs.
Aerostar springs may be the best way.  I haven't had any experience with these springs but have heard a lot of good things about them on the HAMB 52-59 Social Group.  I'm not in favor of cutting springs when something like the Aerostar springs are available.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I've helped more than once pulling springs with a floor jack. Always with someone who really knew what they were doing, and they always had a chain thru the spring. On my own, I use the screw type compressors and a chain. Springs really scare me. Around here you can rent or borrow a compressor pretty cheap.

If I understand the rest of your question, you're asking about letting car sit with the springs out. I'd probably block the frame at about ride height, and also the lower A frame, rather than let the weight of the car rest on the bumpers. That going to put all the weight on the upper a frame, since with the spring in place the lower takes almost all the weight.

I replaced cut front springs (cut for both for aluminum engine parts and headers, as well as lower ride height) with the Aerostar springs. I really like them. If you're a bit low there's a spacer available (Mustang part IIRC) that gives somewhere between 1/2" and 1".

Also, until you got the springs in and weight on the front, I don't think you do the final tightening on the A arm bolts. Final torque at ride height. There's also a difference in the bushing installation between a bird and a pass car IIRC, but I don't recall just what.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Thanks for the replies.

My thinking is change bushings and springs, install disc brakes and all of the power steering, and then install the engine. Should/can I leave the springs compressed and adjust the tension to keep the control arms in the correct position without the engine, or should I release the compressor and let the upper bumper rest against the stop until the engine is reinstalled.




.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci

I'd leave the A frame bushings snug but loose, put the engine in, then tighten them. You'll probably be lifting the car to make some connections when you put the engine back.

As an aside, if you use the Granda spindles for the disc brakes, some members say the Aerostar springs leave you too low. Others seem to be ok. Driving style, roads, etc.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

if you use the Granda spindles for the disc brakes, some members say the Aerostar springs leave you too low

Just a quick note -
GRANADA spindles will give a one to two inch drop depending on which vehicle they are transferred to.

Also, I think that stock springs will be too tall since I have reduced weight by aluminum intake, timing cover and C4 trans

2nd Quick note -

If they are the original springs, they are most likely worn and will sag. Once you get the engine back in, you then measure the vehicle trim height and then decide how you wasnt it to sit and go from there.

____________________________

I did my coil springs in my 1955 Ford Club Sedan with a bare front end, no engine, etc. You can read about it (and see it) here...

https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/09/08/55-ford-fairlane-restoration-blog-part-5


Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Afterthoughts:

The Early Bird springs run through the frame adding a level of safety. I tied the bottom of the spring to the control arm, used a spring compressor, applying just enough pressure to compensate for the engine being out so that the car would not be pushed up when the arms were disconnected from the spindle. Let the jack down a bit then loosened the compressor, I did this a couple of times, the process felt controlled and safe. If the engine was in the car I would not hesitate to use a jack without the spring compressor.

Thanks for all of your input!





.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci