Charlie, I have it adjusted as far as I can between the transmission collar and the throw out bearing collar which is .225 clearance. This means the clutch pedal is almost half way to the floor before everything is loaded up and starts to unload the clutch.

  Vic Correnti

Right, that doesn't change the relation of the fork to the pressure plate.

Removing those shims might be the easiest thing to do.  In addition to changing the relation of the fingers, it will give another .020" between the pressure  plate housing and fork.

A shorter pivot would also help, if possible.  It will change the position of the fork by more than the amount it is shorter because if you move the fork back, it also has to rotate toward the pressure plate in order to achieve the same free play, which moves it even farther from the housing.  1/16" shorter pivot might move the fork 1/8" or 3/16" from the pressure plate housing, whatever the ratio may be.

Did the stock clutch not use a long pressure plate or does this one just behave differently?


Lawrenceville, GA

Your right I'll have to pull everything apart again, crap. The .100 will move things quite a bit and give more clearance at the fork because the bearing will move forward 100. The original was a long style but the one I am replacing was a dual friction Centerforce diaphragm style which was a 1/2" shorter. If I get this figured out it should be the hot setup for a street/strip clutch. It's made to slip on the launch which should mean less broken parts, maximum traction and have a light pedal pressure. Now if I can find someone to help me because these parts get heavier everytime I do this.

  Vic Correnti

Hi Vic.
The only thing with dual plate clutch is you may notice you'll have to slow the shifts down slightly. The synchros have to do more work to alter the speed with the extra weight of the clutches. 

Good to hear the car is still going strong. 

Iran, this is a single sintered steel disc that is supposed to slip. The disc does not have any springs in the center area and the sintered steel grabs better then the composite ones so the pressure is less and then as rpm goes up the centrifugal force makes it grabs more. They say I will leave at a lower rpm and once I get things figured out no wheel slip and less chance of breaking parts because of the slippage. It is totally adjustable and street friendly.

  Vic Correnti

If the clutch goes halfway to the floor before starting to disengage the clutch I would think all you have to do is lengthen the rod from the arm to the piviot. Its the one with the threads that you use to adjust the free pedal. I've had to play with it in the past to get the proper free pedal. Cut it and weld in a piece of rod. Worked for me.

I had similar issues on my 427 Fairlane with the clutch linkage flexing when using ‘stiffer than oem’ pressure plates.  I ended up welding up the two piece bell crank and adding braces to stop the twist that was occurring when pushing down on the clutch pedal.  I also replaced all the original plastic bushings at the swivel points with machined brass.  There were two bushings under the hood and two more under the dash.  After doing all that, free play in the clutch pedal was greatly reduced.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)