There's a whole slate of items out there in California that have been "under review" right now, it's pretty extensive.

If it isn't water, and it evaporates, better stock up now.

The California Air Resources Board Is Considering Further Reductions in Consumer Products’ VOC Content to Reduce California’s Emissions Under the California "Clean Air Act"



CARB held so-called public work group teleconferences to evaluate the following products:

May 20, 2019 from 10 am to noon — hair finishing spray, no rinse shampoo, permanent dye;
May 22, 2019 from 10 am to noon — laundry detergent, liquid fabric softener, dish soap, aerosol cooking spray;
May 28, 2019 from 10 am to noon — air fresheners;
May 30, 2019, 10 am to noon — nonaerosol general purpose cleaner, nonaerosol general purpose degreaser, aerosol bath and tile cleaner, aerosol glass cleaner; and
June 2019 (date and time to be determined for an in-person meeting) — disinfectants, charcoal lighter, scented candle, antiperspirant, deodorant, body spray, personal fragrance with 20% or less fragrance, hand sanitizer, body wash, hand cleaner or soap, hand and body lotion or moisturizer, sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, analgesics, rubbing alcohol, topical anti-fungal products, nail polish, mouthwash, pet care products such as pet litter, insecticide, denatured alcohol, paint remover/stripper, automotive windshield washer fluid and additive, auto body repair products, and brake cleaner."

Nice.

There is a reason they call it the land of Fruits and Nuts. Long term plans call for the end of internal combustion engines, gas stations, refineries etc..

Phil, I'm curious as to why not use a synthetic oil in a Y block after break in?

If I'm rebuilding it using a modern ring and hone according to manufacturers specs. Bearing material has no bearing on type of oil used, nor anything else. In fact because of friction reducers in synthetic I would think it would be the best oil to use. 
I personally use synthetic oil in my daily driver and race car, also plan to use it in my Y block when finished.
Just curious as to your opinion why not?

Dave 
Even VR1 which is being touted as the thing to use advertises friction reducers

Carburetor engines tend to have fuel wash down upon start and warm up conditions.  Fuel dilutes, washes down the cylinder walls, and collects in the oil, which causes it to deteriorate quicker than fuel injection engines.  If you have a modern EFI installed on the Y, or a fresh build with good quality rings/cylinder clearances, then after break-in, a synthetic should work fine.  A good high capacity ignition system will help with more complete combustion process, and that helps with less fuel dilution in the oil.  Joe-JDC

JDC

I was once told that California is a case of liberalism gone insane. I believe it is true. No wonder people are leaving there by the thousands. If you follow this you would not be able to work as a mechanic unless you wanted dirty parts and dirty hands as a permanent feature.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

"FREE SAMPLE"

Pshaw, we were better off when the Cuyohoga had an octane rating.

I was just researching this since I use VR1.  On the 540ratblog, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com many (maybe all, super long document that I don't care to read all the way through) of the oils he tested were sent out for analysis.  The VR1 has as much detergents/dispersants as any other street oil, more than some and less than others.  Mobil 1 5w30 is one that I saw that has less. Pennzoil 5w30 Ultra is one I saw that has more.  Both of these are definite street oils.
The VR1 test results, 10w30, had much higher zinc and phosphorous than Valvoline indicate that it should, https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 so either Valvoline is providing incorrect information or testing was done incorrectly or the test sample was contaminated or something else so it is possible that the test results cannot be trusted.

On a related note, a youtube channel I watch recently did a comparison between a 70 year old can of Quaker State and modern Quaker State.  The canned oil had no significant difference in zinc and phosphorous, and no detergents.  Some caveats, it did not take into account any possible reduction in those due to extended contact with the can or chemical reactions / degradation taking place.  I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea if those are actual concerns but it's something to consider.  A lot of natural phenomenon can happen to something sitting on a shelf for 70 years.  https://youtu.be/-zHlxeu_yuM Test results start at about 10 minutes.






Lawrenceville, GA

RE: OIL WITH ZINC:
According to fellow bloggers, for a safe practical inexpensive oil for your flat tappet cars, buy the Walmart Brand 15W 40 oil for diesel engines. This oil has all the ingredients you need to protect your cam and engine parts.
It is used religiously in my '56 312 Crown Victoria............no problems.
Tim
Mud Key, FL 33704

Where does WALLY-WORLD source it?

Who is the refiner/packager?

Would it be like their off-shore food products?

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