1970 Boss 302.


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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
Does this engine need ZDDP additive?  It is .30 over and rebuilt.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
It doesn't need an additive, it needs a formulated engine oil. Maybe a booster for run-in.

Check VALVOLINE and BRAD PENN.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/images/graemlins/default/27.gif

KULTULZ - Hunkered down with steel pot and flak jacket ...
By Dave C - 5 Years Ago
I built and raced Boss 302's for many years, Stock it has flat tappet solid lifters, and a more radical cam than your normal grocery getter so spring pressure will be higher.
So, in saying that I would want an oil that had more zinc/anti wear content than run of the mill oil used in todays roller lifter engines.
This is my opinion.

Dave

By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc formula provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Its exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing, including paved and dirt ovals and drag racing. It is formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.      
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/8a03a8a7-d9ec-45b0-9e6f-de70.jpg
By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.

It's my understanding that these additives don't make any distinction between zinc or sludge or carbon on components. This is apparently one reason "break-in" oils have very little in the way of detergents. I'm not poor but VR1 pencils out to something like $140 annually (+ filters.)
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Lots of opinions on this topic.  I use VR-1 because it's readily available and is compatible with solid lifter engines.  I change my oil when it looks dirty.  This means I change it often.  No science about that.  I order VR-1 online because it's much cheaper than the local auto parts stores and there is no delivery charge. I would not use synthetic oil in a YBlock.  I use it in all my modern cars.  There is a place for those oils and it's not in a 60 year old engine.  Just my opinion for what it's worth.
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
I use to use VR1 in my FE and would change when started looking dirty, usually about 1500 miles. But I can't buy it in Calif anymore and didn't find anyone who would ship it here either. When I ran out of Valvoline conventional 10-30 to use in my Y block I started using Driven HR2 10-30, I change it every 3000 and haven't had any issues after 9000 miles on the new engine. Now I'm using it in my FE also, so far so good. I only use Wix filters.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.


VR-1 is not actually a RACING OIL but an oil intended for old tech engines. VALVOLINE has different product(s) for a true race engine.

As for change frequency, an older engine runs dirtier than modern engines, hence the need for more frequent changes.

There are specialty oils for flat tappet break-in. You drop that after run-in and go with whatever oil you decide on.
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
But I can't buy it in Calif anymore and didn't find anyone who would ship it here either.


- CA EMISSION LAWS -
By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
KULTULZ (11/25/2019)
As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.


VR-1 is not actually a RACING OIL but an oil intended for old tech engines. VALVOLINE has different product(s) for a true race engine.



Valvoline considers it a racing oil and in any case it has long been used for that. They don't make any distinctions on the age of the engine, it's "3 months/3000 miles", again due to the additive package or lack of it.

They also sell a synthetic racing oil VR1, even more spendy, with a 500 mile oil change interval.
By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
There's a whole slate of items out there in California that have been "under review" right now, it's pretty extensive.

If it isn't water, and it evaporates, better stock up now.

The California Air Resources Board Is Considering Further Reductions in Consumer Products’ VOC Content to Reduce California’s Emissions Under the California "Clean Air Act"



CARB held so-called public work group teleconferences to evaluate the following products:

May 20, 2019 from 10 am to noon — hair finishing spray, no rinse shampoo, permanent dye;
May 22, 2019 from 10 am to noon — laundry detergent, liquid fabric softener, dish soap, aerosol cooking spray;
May 28, 2019 from 10 am to noon — air fresheners;
May 30, 2019, 10 am to noon — nonaerosol general purpose cleaner, nonaerosol general purpose degreaser, aerosol bath and tile cleaner, aerosol glass cleaner; and
June 2019 (date and time to be determined for an in-person meeting) — disinfectants, charcoal lighter, scented candle, antiperspirant, deodorant, body spray, personal fragrance with 20% or less fragrance, hand sanitizer, body wash, hand cleaner or soap, hand and body lotion or moisturizer, sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, analgesics, rubbing alcohol, topical anti-fungal products, nail polish, mouthwash, pet care products such as pet litter, insecticide, denatured alcohol, paint remover/stripper, automotive windshield washer fluid and additive, auto body repair products, and brake cleaner."


Nice.
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
There is a reason they call it the land of Fruits and Nuts. Long term plans call for the end of internal combustion engines, gas stations, refineries etc..
By Dave C - 5 Years Ago
Florida_Phil (11/25/2019)
Lots of opinions on this topic.  I use VR-1 because it's readily available and is compatible with solid lifter engines.  I change my oil when it looks dirty.  This means I change it often.  No science about that.  I order VR-1 online because it's much cheaper than the local auto parts stores and there is no delivery charge. I would not use synthetic oil in a YBlock.  I use it in all my modern cars.  There is a place for those oils and it's not in a 60 year old engine.  Just my opinion for what it's worth.


Phil, I'm curious as to why not use a synthetic oil in a Y block after break in?

If I'm rebuilding it using a modern ring and hone according to manufacturers specs. Bearing material has no bearing on type of oil used, nor anything else. In fact because of friction reducers in synthetic I would think it would be the best oil to use. 
I personally use synthetic oil in my daily driver and race car, also plan to use it in my Y block when finished.
Just curious as to your opinion why not?

Dave 
Even VR1 which is being touted as the thing to use advertises friction reducers

By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
Carburetor engines tend to have fuel wash down upon start and warm up conditions.  Fuel dilutes, washes down the cylinder walls, and collects in the oil, which causes it to deteriorate quicker than fuel injection engines.  If you have a modern EFI installed on the Y, or a fresh build with good quality rings/cylinder clearances, then after break-in, a synthetic should work fine.  A good high capacity ignition system will help with more complete combustion process, and that helps with less fuel dilution in the oil.  Joe-JDC
By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
I was once told that California is a case of liberalism gone insane. I believe it is true. No wonder people are leaving there by the thousands. If you follow this you would not be able to work as a mechanic unless you wanted dirty parts and dirty hands as a permanent feature.
By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/85c38e13-6565-44fd-8522-db6c.png
57RancheroJim (11/25/2019)
There is a reason they call it the land of Fruits and Nuts. Long term plans call for the end of internal combustion engines, gas stations, refineries etc..


By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
Pshaw, we were better off when the Cuyohoga had an octane rating.
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
Tedster (11/25/2019)
As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.

It's my understanding that these additives don't make any distinction between zinc or sludge or carbon on components. This is apparently one reason "break-in" oils have very little in the way of detergents. I'm not poor but VR1 pencils out to something like $140 annually (+ filters.)


I was just researching this since I use VR1.  On the 540ratblog, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com many (maybe all, super long document that I don't care to read all the way through) of the oils he tested were sent out for analysis.  The VR1 has as much detergents/dispersants as any other street oil, more than some and less than others.  Mobil 1 5w30 is one that I saw that has less. Pennzoil 5w30 Ultra is one I saw that has more.  Both of these are definite street oils.
The VR1 test results, 10w30, had much higher zinc and phosphorous than Valvoline indicate that it should, https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 so either Valvoline is providing incorrect information or testing was done incorrectly or the test sample was contaminated or something else so it is possible that the test results cannot be trusted.

On a related note, a youtube channel I watch recently did a comparison between a 70 year old can of Quaker State and modern Quaker State.  The canned oil had no significant difference in zinc and phosphorous, and no detergents.  Some caveats, it did not take into account any possible reduction in those due to extended contact with the can or chemical reactions / degradation taking place.  I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea if those are actual concerns but it's something to consider.  A lot of natural phenomenon can happen to something sitting on a shelf for 70 years.  https://youtu.be/-zHlxeu_yuM Test results start at about 10 minutes.



By Tim Quinn - 5 Years Ago
RE: OIL WITH ZINC:
According to fellow bloggers, for a safe practical inexpensive oil for your flat tappet cars, buy the Walmart Brand 15W 40 oil for diesel engines. This oil has all the ingredients you need to protect your cam and engine parts.
It is used religiously in my '56 312 Crown Victoria............no problems.
Tim
Mud Key, FL 33704
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
Where does WALLY-WORLD source it?

Who is the refiner/packager?

Would it be like their off-shore food products?
By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
It's sourced from the Cuyahoga and Kanawha rivers. It's skimmed right off the surface!
KULTULZ (12/19/2019)
Where does WALLY-WORLD source it?

Who is the refiner/packager?

Would it be like their off-shore food products?


By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
A lot of natural phenomenon can happen to something sitting on a shelf for 70 years. 


Take my sex life as an example ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies/missingteeth.gif