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Baffles for a big truck y block pan

Posted By famdoc3 5 Years Ago
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famdoc3
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I have a nice large sump y block heavy truck pan. I'm planning to use it in my supercharged y block Model A hotrod. I think it would likely benefit from some internal baffles to keep the oil from sloshing forward up its gradual slope. Has anyone done this? How did you place the baffles and how did it work out? I could really use some advice on this. MIKE

Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 50 years
Ted
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See if some of these pictures help.  I typically like about 1/8” clearance under the baffle to allow the oil to flow back to the sump.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1ada8a41-893f-45a5-8ad4-5181.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/439d1e05-b808-4530-89d2-00cd.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/97a8fa1d-d733-42df-ac50-9a98.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/95d2acdb-78e5-46f2-b5bb-1255.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/af54d84b-8f63-48eb-8026-f616.jpg 



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


famdoc3
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Ted, I appreciate the pictures. Will replicate the baffles in my pan. Will post pictures of mine after it's done.


Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 50 years
suede57ford
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Thanks for the pictures Ted.

The baffels are definitley necessary on those pans.


I'm getting some hinged trap doors from Canton to build baffles into the oil pan on the '62 Unibody Performance Shop Truck I'm building now.

Before I added some baffles in my black '57 Sedan's motor it was leaving hard enough (1.75 60 fts') it would pop the oil light on at launch.
I do keep the factory dash Oil Light connected to so I can easlily see if oil pressure drops at any instant.

Jerry Christianson convinced me to start using the autometer senders that light go off under 19 lbs.   I also added a higher watt bulb in my '57 oil lamp hole so I can easily see it in case of problems.

I use an oil pressure gauge to bu the bright dash light it the best warning to a drop in pressure since its so noticable and its int he stock location so it looks original.






Pat Fleischman


paul2748
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Do you have a part number for the sender?

suede57ford (11/24/2019)
Thanks for the pictures Ted.
Jerry Christianson convinced me to start using the autometer senders that light go off under 19 lbs.   I also added a higher watt bulb in my '57 oil lamp hole so I can easily see it in case of problems.

I use an oil pressure gauge to bu the bright dash light it the best warning to a drop in pressure since its so noticable and its int he stock location so it looks original.








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famdoc3
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I am thinking of adding a 1" tall baffle (the shiny metal) to the existing factory baffle to slow down forward surge under hard braking as the pan has such a gradual slope. What do you think, good idea or bad?.


Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 50 years
famdoc3
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Side picture of pan to see how shallow the sump is. MIKE


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miker
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It's hard to tell from the pictures, but is another inch enough? It looks like the baffles are closer to the pan rail in Ted's pictures, and the truck pans are deep. IIRC, those truck pans had a much higher oil capacity, do you intend to run it full? I've not done baffles in the yblocks, but I've run them and swinging baffles in OT motors.

It's not been a problem with my 32, with 5.60's on the front and 8.20's on the back it doesn't stop fast enough to slosh the oil.

miker
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Joe-JDC
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Move the baffle more forward to the slope, and don't give the oil so much room to slosh backwards, and it will have better control.  Make sure the crankshaft does not hit wherever you place it first.  Trial fit pickup tube before final weld.  Joe-JDC

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Ted
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I’ll agree with Joe in that the baffle needs to be moved back some more.  You are trying to prevent the oil from going forward during hard braking thus uncovering the oil pickup screen.  Two baffles with a small amount of clearance under them would be even better.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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