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By famdoc3 - 5 Years Ago
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I have a nice large sump y block heavy truck pan. I'm planning to use it in my supercharged y block Model A hotrod. I think it would likely benefit from some internal baffles to keep the oil from sloshing forward up its gradual slope. Has anyone done this? How did you place the baffles and how did it work out? I could really use some advice on this. MIKE
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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See if some of these pictures help. I typically like about 1/8” clearance under the baffle to allow the oil to flow back to the sump.
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By famdoc3 - 5 Years Ago
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Ted, I appreciate the pictures. Will replicate the baffles in my pan. Will post pictures of mine after it's done.
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By suede57ford - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks for the pictures Ted.
The baffels are definitley necessary on those pans.
I'm getting some hinged trap doors from Canton to build baffles into the oil pan on the '62 Unibody Performance Shop Truck I'm building now.
Before I added some baffles in my black '57 Sedan's motor it was leaving hard enough (1.75 60 fts') it would pop the oil light on at launch.
I do keep the factory dash Oil Light connected to so I can easlily see if oil pressure drops at any instant.
Jerry Christianson convinced me to start using the autometer senders that light go off under 19 lbs. I also added a higher watt bulb in my '57 oil lamp hole so I can easily see it in case of problems.
I use an oil pressure gauge to bu the bright dash light it the best warning to a drop in pressure since its so noticable and its int he stock location so it looks original.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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Do you have a part number for the sender?
suede57ford (11/24/2019)
Thanks for the pictures Ted. Jerry Christianson convinced me to start using the autometer senders that light go off under 19 lbs. I also added a higher watt bulb in my '57 oil lamp hole so I can easily see it in case of problems. I use an oil pressure gauge to bu the bright dash light it the best warning to a drop in pressure since its so noticable and its int he stock location so it looks original.
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By famdoc3 - 5 Years Ago
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I am thinking of adding a 1" tall baffle (the shiny metal) to the existing factory baffle to slow down forward surge under hard braking as the pan has such a gradual slope. What do you think, good idea or bad?.
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By famdoc3 - 5 Years Ago
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Side picture of pan to see how shallow the sump is. MIKE
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By miker - 5 Years Ago
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It's hard to tell from the pictures, but is another inch enough? It looks like the baffles are closer to the pan rail in Ted's pictures, and the truck pans are deep. IIRC, those truck pans had a much higher oil capacity, do you intend to run it full? I've not done baffles in the yblocks, but I've run them and swinging baffles in OT motors.
It's not been a problem with my 32, with 5.60's on the front and 8.20's on the back it doesn't stop fast enough to slosh the oil.
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By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
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Move the baffle more forward to the slope, and don't give the oil so much room to slosh backwards, and it will have better control. Make sure the crankshaft does not hit wherever you place it first. Trial fit pickup tube before final weld. Joe-JDC
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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I’ll agree with Joe in that the baffle needs to be moved back some more. You are trying to prevent the oil from going forward during hard braking thus uncovering the oil pickup screen. Two baffles with a small amount of clearance under them would be even better.
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By 30 coupe - 5 Years Ago
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I will try and post a picture of mine.
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By 30 coupe - 5 Years Ago
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and maybe another
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By NY59F100 - 4 Years Ago
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So, I have heavily modified my stock truck pan to accommodate my power steering in my 59 F100. I deepened the pan 1” and made a smooth transition from the front down to the sump. I have the baffle positioned but not welded yet.
So my questions:
1. How does the location look and do you think I would need a second baffle?
2. I know Ted mentioned having 1/8” clearance on the bottom, but how much on top?
3. Since I deepened the pan, what should I do about lowering the pickup? And how far off the bottom should I be?
Thanks everyone!
  
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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The baffle needs to be placed such that the crank or rods will not hit it. Without digging out a pan and block to look, I think the stock baffle is positioned under a main cap. You can use the holes on the pan rail as reference to check the location. I don't think there is a limit on how tall the baffle should be besides ensuring that it does not contact anything. The oil level in an unmodified pan is right up to about the bottom of the hole for the pickup tube so that might give an idea of a minimum height.
I can dig out the parts to check, if necessary. It's just not convenient right now.
You should be able to use a section of 3/4" diameter 16 gauge tubing to extend the pickup.
When I modified my pickup a few years ago, I used an aftermarket pickup which had feet on the side which were, I think 1/4" long, intended to be welded to the bottom of the pan. You want 1/4" to 3/8" between the pickup and pan. While test fitting, before final welding, with the pan to tube nut snug enough to remove play and spacers between the pan and block to simulate a compressed gasket, I adjusted it until could wiggle the tube within the pump and hear the feet hit the bottom of the pan at the lowest available travel. Once I was satisfied, I cut the feet off and finished the job. There might be a better way. It's a tricky setup to deal with. If you tack some feet onto the pickup you could do the same to set it up.
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By NY59F100 - 4 Years Ago
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Charlie,
Thanks for the response. I didn’t have a baffle in this pan originally, but I have a pan that does. I’m assuming it’s a stock baffle, but I can’t say for sure. I modeled my baffle using that one, including size, location and distance down from the top rail of the oil pan. That distance is 1 1/4” +/- 1/16, same as the one I made.
Using your suggestion, I measured a bare block and the baffle does fall within the location of a main cap, not exactly centered but definitely hidden by it, so there shouldn’t be any interference.
Currently, my pickup is about 1” off the bottom, so I’ll need to drop it at least 3/4”. I didn’t know if there was a way to braze or solder the original tubing-to-pickup joint or if I’ll just have to cut and weld in a piece.
Do you think I should put in a second baffle? Or is it unnecessary?
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By famdoc3 - 4 Years Ago
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Chromed my pan and it’s gorgeous. Then added a piano hinged plate to the front of the rail opens to the back will closes pretty tight trapping the oil in the back of the pan
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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I don't know if you need a second baffle. For most instances, probably not.
I also put a gate in mine, while retaining the stock baffle and that does work great. The only other way I've had it is with no baffle and that was not good while braking. I don't know how well only one stock or similar baffle works.
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By NY59F100 - 4 Years Ago
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Can you elaborate on the gate? So you have the stock baffle, but where is the gate added? Exactly what does this gate look like? And how is it attached?
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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A piece of piano hinge tack welded to the bottom portion of the baffle and fitted to the contour of the bottom of the pan. While braking, the rush of oil forward closes it, preventing the oil from moving away from the pickup. The key is to ensure that it flops freely after it is installed.
This photo is from my check of the oil level in the pan (water in this case), with the pan angled as it would be when installed on the engine. What you see is 5 or 5.5 quarts, I don't remember exactly how much at this point, since some will be up in the engine, oil filter, etc. But it also shows the best view of the gate that I have available. The pickup pictured is not the one I was talking about above. It is another version, stock pickup.
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By NY59F100 - 4 Years Ago
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Charlie,
I finally finished my baffles. I put one in a stock truck pan to replace the one in my 59 F100 I’ve been driving. I plan on switching it out next oil change. I’m looking forward to seeing the difference. Right now I can see the drop in oil pressure at a hard stop. I put the piano hinge on the baffle modeled after the stock one. (second and third pictures)
I’ve also added one to the pan that will be going on my stroker motor. It’s the same design, just shallower. I also managed to get my oil pan pickup lowered by simply heating and bending the original tube. I’m right at 1/4-3/8” depending on exactly where the pickup tube meets the pump. Thanks for your help.  
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