Thanks for the Pics. Front clearance can always be increased by using a Spacer but You seem to be OK as is. The Rear is another Story because You can't space out much further before U hit the Body. Appreciate the Info. Gives Me an Idea of what room I would end up with using 6" Wide Wheels and 205 75 Tires. Should not be a Problem.

  

I just put my old tires and wheels on my 55 crown victoria,on the rear they are touching the fender .so now im puzzled why are they too wide? I didnt want to give you a bum steer so this is what I found out. The wheels are 7”Appliance with 205R 70 15 the adapters I have are 1”,somewhere years ago the inner rear fender was flattened so thats why there is more room for tire clearance. I recall now that we used to flatten that part of the fender to gain clearance years ago.as I look at it,raising the rear would also givemore clearance. I dont know if you would want to flatten or cut out that piece of metal inside the fender but thats why I had plenty of room on my 56,but my stock 55 is just touching the tire. Like I said,I didnt want to give you false or erroneous information,I hope this helps.

Dont know what happened with that!

You can delete each extra Post by clicking delete for each One. Probably the difference is the Offset of the Rim. Neutral or Zero offset puts the Hub at the centreline of the rim (middle). + or- Offset moves the hub out or in therefore the Rim sits further in towards the Car or out away from the Car causing Tire to hit Fender. Every Rim in the Catalogs shows offset #'s so U can check Positioning before buying them. At least this is my understanding of Offset..

  

Dont know what happened with that!

Must be an echo from so few people in the hall this morning ...

Any-who, what you are describing is modifying (also possibly widening) the inner and outer wheelhouse to accept wider tires. Also modifying the quarter wheel opening lip and moving the rear leafs closer together. As for the rake, that was the way it was done back then for the car to get traction. The front was left loose (90/10 shocks or worn-out shocks) so at launch the front end would rise and transfer weight to the rear. As it went down the track the front end would settle to cut the air. The rear suspension was tightened so as not to squat. Usually, rear tire width was restricted to no more than 7" for stock classes.

Of course, the look had to be duplicated on a street car for SAT-NITE DRIVE-IN display. Tire squealing, wheel standing and crowd pleasing SOB!

Beautiful car and stance!

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Thanks for the info ,nice to have people that actually know what they’re talking about.Iwont bore you with the details but I ordered my wheels and tires at a “Discount Tire” here locally and after one mistake after another I finally got the right wheels and almost the right lug nuts.it only took about 5 weeks . I just assumed they were the experts and knew all there was to know about bolt patterns and wheels etc... boy was I wrong!

I use American Racing Torque Thrust D's 15 x 6 and it has a 3.66 back space. Clears everything including the exhaust which comes thru the bumper. I have  205's on the front and 215's on the rear. Also clears Wilwood front disc calipers without a spacer.
To be correct you need a line drawn thru the centers of the ball joints to meet the ground at the center of the tread on the ground at ride height.  The "old time" chrome reversed wheels were tough on outer wheel bearings and thru off the correct angle.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

If You ever want Info regarding Rims,Backspace, Offset, etc the Manufacturers Website is the Place to look..Cragar has a very Informative Site with Explanations about fitting Wheels. I would think most Wheel Companies have similar Sites.