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Posted By oldcarmark 5 Years Ago
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oldcarmark
Posted 5 Years Ago
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My Friends 56 suddenly won't Start. Conventional Ignition with Points. Points are opening OK. When doing a little checking using Test Light I found there is no Power to "I" Terminal on Solenoid with Key in run Position.When I checked mine there is Power to that Terminal with Key in "Run" Position.No Power on "I" Terminal when cranking which there should be to provide direct 12 Volts to Coil to start the Engine.There is Power to One Side of Resistor with Key in "Run" Position but not both Terminals which I believe there should be.So my Guess is the Solenoid has quit and because it would not Start using the "I" Terminal on Solenoid the Resistor is also burned out trying to draw Voltage to start Car instead of the Bypass Circuit on Solenoid. Before I buy a new Solenoid and Resistor any other Opinions? Thanks

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57RancheroJim
Posted 5 Years Ago
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There should be NO power at the I terminal in the RUN position, only in the Start position to send 12V to the coil so maybe the solenoid is bad. To check the resistor you can remove both wires and attach them together or use a small jumper wire between the terminals.. I would check the resistor first. Also a jumper wire between the Battery+ and the coil+, if it doesn't start it could be the coil.
oldcarmark
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When Cranking using the Key there is no Voltage at the "I" Terminal which there should be to start Engine. Normally it will at least cause the engine to run at least for a few Seconds until key is released and voltage to Coil runs direct from Ignition Switch. I have an extra Resistor to use if I can decide to replace Solenoid which I think is not working properly because no Voltage at "I" Terminal when cranking. When the Key is in the "Run" Position Voltage will show at the "I" Terminal because Voltage will flow from Ignition Switch back through Resistor to Solenoid because both Wires are together on Coil Terminal. That why I think the Resistor is also burned out. Sound like I am on the right Track? Solenoid and Resistor?

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57RancheroJim
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Your on the right track, just a process of elimination. Does the car have an OEM solenoid or a replacement? I've has a few replacements that were junk in no time. The last one I had wouldn't shut off and I would have to get out and open the hood and beat on it Sad
oldcarmark
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Its been on there a long Time. It has Rubber Insulator between top and Bottom Cover. The Ones made for at least the last 10+  Years are Rivitted  together with no Seal Visible. An Oldie but a Goodie!

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bergmanj
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Oldcarmark has very likely "nailed" it!  Yes, the "I" terminal will have backfeed voltage from the coil "run" circuit - that is normal.  No direct 12V from the "I" terminal during cranking will result in low primary voltage to the coil during cranking when the battery voltage could normally be down to as low as 8 V, which will not provide adequate spark when supplied to the coil through the resistor; the "I" circuit normally bypasses the "run" resistor during cranking.

I've drilled-out the solenoid cover rivets, "fixed" the solenoid contacts, and used machine screws/nuts to replace the covers.  Try it: You can't really do much harm if already bad.

Regards, JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top
oldcarmark
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bergmanj (7/31/2019)
Oldcarmark has very likely "nailed" it!  Yes, the "I" terminal will have backfeed voltage from the coil "run" circuit - that is normal.  No direct 12V from the "I" terminal during cranking will result in low primary voltage to the coil during cranking when the battery voltage could normally be down to as low as 8 V, which will not provide adequate spark when supplied to the coil through the resistor; the "I" circuit normally bypasses the "run" resistor during cranking.

I've drilled-out the solenoid cover rivets, "fixed" the solenoid contacts, and used machine screws/nuts to replace the covers.  Try it: You can't really do much harm if already bad.

Regards, JLB

Thanks. I think the Resistor is cooked also as there is Power to One Terminal when the Key is in the "Run" Position but not to the other when a Test Light is used. There should be Power to both Terminals as it is a Resistor not a Switch? I have a Resistor which I took off Mine when I switched to Pertronix and a used Solenoid that I will try Tomorrow.

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bergmanj
Posted 5 Years Ago
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If the points are "open", you should be able to measure 12 V on both sides of the resistor with ignition in "run".  If points are "closed", measured voltage on the "feed" side of the resistor should still be 12; and, on the coil side should be somewhere around (very roughly - it's resistor, coil, and points dependent) half that +/-.

Yeah, sounds to me that the resistor is probably "toast".  Another thing that can go wrong with those old resistors is high-resistance corrosion at the rivet connections to the internal resistance element. In at least one auto and other applications, cleaning and carefully tightening the rivet connections has corrected the issue for me.

Regards, JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top
oldcarmark
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Last Active: 4 Weeks Ago
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Fixed It ! Exactly what I thought it was. Resistor and Solenoid. I was finally able to talk Him into letting Me replace the Distributor with a 57+. He has a later 2 BBL on it which was installed last Year along with a 2 BBL Manifold. I don't know how it is still driveable with the original Loadomatic and a blown Vacuum Advance. I didn't think it was possible. Anyway He does admit it doesn't run very well and hesitates every time He accelerates. Little Project for next Week.

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