Just updated my 56 Fairlane to 4 wheel disc, explorer rear and speedway g-body metric front. Wondering what would be a good master cylinder to use I’m not wanting to use power just sticking with manual . I don’t have any information on what bore size the master cylinder needs to be, I’ve heard 15/16. Anyone have some info on this would be greatly appreciated

15/16" and 1" is common for non power assisted brakes.  The important thing is the line pressure and that can be achieved using different master cylinder bores and/or a different pedal ratio.  I think Wilwood or Baer (or another high end manufacturer) discuss this in their tech section but it's possible that their spec could apply only to their brakes.
Another consideration will be the brake line ports.  You probably want them on the left, going away from the engine.  The lines can get in the way of removing the valve cover if they are on the right, in at least some vehicles.


Lawrenceville, GA

I'm not sure if this will help, but when I put discs on the front only of my 52 1/2 ton Ford I left them as manual. They wouldn't stop me well at all. Way worse than the stock front drums. I added a remote power booster for the front only and now that truck stops way better than ever. What I'm getting at is that manual discs may not give you the braking you're looking for, but I'm sure someone on this forum will have more insights. I used a corvette master and it has worked well.

Life isn't about arriving at the end in a pristine, well preserved body; It's about sliding in sideways, all clapped out, yelling "What a ride!"

Manual with front disc and rear drum works well for me.  The biggest improvement is when I replaced the cheap parts store level pads that came with the front disc kit with a more street performance oriented product from an aftermarket brand that cost about 3 - 4x as much.  That was a night and day improvement although the cheep pads always stopped it when I needed it to stop.

As to any improvement over drums, I cannot say because I never had correctly working 4 wheel drums - a combination of inexperience on my part, about 19 years ago when this was mostly new to me and previous owner swapped parts confusing things.  I did recently have to do some rear brake work and I have to say, I think I'm about done with drum brakes.  Discs are far easier to work on and the selection of various performance levels of pad materials simply bring forth exactly what drums are, obsolete.


Lawrenceville, GA

Just noticed four wheel discs.  My comment  does not apply


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I have 4 wheel disc on my bird. Early Fairlane front calipers, later model Mustang rear caliper. Previously, I had an early model GM rear caliper. (The ones everyone hates, the parking brake never worked) works great now, but it’s been a bit of work.

I’m running a “corvette” style master, which is either 15/16 or 1”. I’ve also got a hydro boost, and a shortened brake pedal. So I’m not sure how much help I’ll be. But what I’ve learned, mostly the hard and expensive way.

You’ll need the proper residual valves, probably for most disc 2lbs. (Those oddball GM ones needed 10 lbs, like a drum). And an adjustable valve to the rear brakes.

You’ll need to be able to measure the pressure at the front and rear systems. Different calipers require differs volumes and operating pressures. Then you get into pads (mentioned here recently). The cheap pads that came with the front conversion may never work right with with a different pad that came on an OEM rear axle or a rear conversion kit. Been there.

I’m not trying to be negative, I’ve got great brakes which will lock 225 60’s on the front just as the 235 60’s on the rear start to slide. But it took someone with a lot more knowledge than me to figure it all out. Factory brake systems are pretty complicated set ups we all take for granted. Mixing and matching a one off takes some engineering knowledge l don’t have.

I also know this doesn’t address power/non power brakes. But acceptable foot pressure varies with the individual. You might try calling one of the major aftermarket suppliers and asking, they might know. I’ve had mixed results with that but Master Power Brakes, American Braking Systems and CCP Brakes come to mind.

On my own, I’d start with a 15/16 bore for non power, a rear proportioning valve, and residual pressure valves, and take it from there.

You can make it work.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

My pads are oem but I’m kinda leaning toward a power unit now any recommendations? A duel 7” booster and master cylinder who makes a good unit?