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oldcarmark
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Group: Forum Members
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Talkwrench (6/16/2019)
Looks like all fixed , Sounds like it was carb issues that Charlie ran you through .. Just wondering if you still had an exhaust / heater flap in one of the manifolds? Heat Riser Valve. Good Point. They tend to seize up.

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Talkwrench
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Group: Forum Members
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charliemccraney
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But does it stall if one or the other screw is turned all the way in? Verify that it does and all is probably well with the carburetor, now.
Lawrenceville, GA
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Tim Quinn
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Idle screws open two turns, perfect idle and curb idle is set a 626 rpm. Car runs better and seems more responsive............me happy Big time thanks for your help and time, Tim (Hot 'n Humid) Florida
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charliemccraney
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Do the idle screws stall the engine now and are the manifold temps better?
Lawrenceville, GA
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Tim Quinn
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The vacuum leak was caused by the PVC hook up. Thanks for your help, Tim Nearly Dead or Newly Wed, Florida 33706
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oldcarmark
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miker (6/14/2019)
Try it as mark and Charlie suggested. The opening on the air cleaner bottom is made to use from a sealed oil filler cap for a “closed PCV” system. The factory oil fill cap is used on an “open PCV” system. Goggle that and you’ll see the difference and how they work. I run both my y blocks with closed systems, using this type of cap to the air cleaner. The PVC valve is in the valley cover (with a baffle under it), then to the PCV port on the carb. The fill cap looks like this. I don’t know if this fits our oil fill tubes.  I’ve also used this grommet as the PCV grommet in the valley cover. Again, I’m not sure this item is exactly the one you need. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-68772 I used that Grommet too. Works well. You will need a smaller Grommet to hold the PCV. Grommet will fit inside the bigger Grommet. I used Super Glue to bond the 2 together otherwise the smaller One works out of the bigger one. It almost sounds like He has a Thunderbird Cover. If so you just need a Grommet to go in the Cover once U remove the existing Tube. Already has a Baffle underneath.

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miker
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Try it as mark and Charlie suggested. The opening on the air cleaner bottom is made to use from a sealed oil filler cap for a “closed PCV” system. The factory oil fill cap is used on an “open PCV” system. Goggle that and you’ll see the difference and how they work. I run both my y blocks with closed systems, using this type of cap to the air cleaner. The PVC valve is in the valley cover (with a baffle under it), then to the PCV port on the carb. The fill cap looks like this. I don’t know if this fits our oil fill tubes.  I’ve also used this grommet as the PCV grommet in the valley cover. Again, I’m not sure this item is exactly the one you need. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-68772
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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oldcarmark
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PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Sticking the Hose in the Air Cleaner is useless. The Valve must be hooked to Engine Vacuum to draw Fumes from the inside the Engine. As Charlie and I both suggested unplug the PCV and cap the Vacuum inlet on Carb and setup the Carb first so its working correctly and then deal with the PCV. By the sounds of what You are describing You have Vacuum leak Issues.

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Tim Quinn
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Next Step I have a K&N air filter with a hole in the bottom of the filter base. I'll run the PCV hose into this hole and then the oil fumes will pass into the air filter. This way the carb is bypassed and out of the picture ! Hopefully no air leaks. Will advise if this plan works. Thanks for your input, it has been helpful a true learning moment. Tim Downtown, Florida 33706
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