Profile Picture

2 to 4 bl. Conversion test drive problems

Posted By Melly 5 Years Ago
You don't have permission to rate!
Author
Message
Melly
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 200, Visits: 48.3K
Winter is still hang on here but finally got to take my y block out for test drive. During the winter went from a 2 to 4 barrel on a 57, 312. Used a 57 intake, a 57 distributor ( w/points ), and Holley 570 cfm carb. All seemed to go well, fired up great, timed it and figured all was good. Finally got to take it out for test drive today. Started perfect, started down road slow increase speed in 1st at about 3000 rpm stared to run funny tach jumped 6-7k but motor rpm was still running as should motor seemed to be running ruff. Shifted to 2nd and again at about 3000 rpm did same.
Do not know we’re to start looking. I believe points are set correct, and timing ( what should timing and point be ) . Am running the dist vacuum off carburetor ( maybe should run off manifold source ) ?? I do have another dist from a 61 I could try. But really have no clue.
Any help would be great.
Florida_Phil
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)Supercharged (2.9K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.2K, Visits: 285.6K
Start with the easy stuff first.  There are lots of Chinese points and condensers out there and they can cause the issue you are describing.   Make sure to check the ignition wires, especially the one going from the coil to the distributor.  Usually these problems are easy to fix, sometimes hard to find. If your car has been sitting for some time, check the gas.

If the car ran OK before the swap, I suspect the carb or you created the problem during the swap.  The carb is the least likely issue.  Is the carb new, rebuilt or used?  Did you remove the distributor or change the timing?   Check to see if the distributor advance is working.  The car should run even without the vacuum advance line connected. 


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/82ad85c1-6def-4eb4-a085-3dd2.jpg

bergmanj
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)Supercharged (539 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 256, Visits: 3.4K
Melly,

Possibly "point bounce" at the higher RPM's; that can show as double RPM's on a tach. You might need to check the points spring tension.  Most of us don't do that when installing new points; BUT, if not enough tension [see shop manual], they can "bounce" and present as you have described.

Hope this helps, JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top
Melly
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 200, Visits: 48.3K
Was thinking of doing the  PerTronix  ll ignitor.  Any thought on this?  Would you do the  l  or ll ?  Hoping to get around today or tomorrow to start and check thing over.  What is the point gap and timing used for this setup? Will check against what I have.  
oldcarmark
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 3.6K, Visits: 32.3K
New Point Gap .014-.016. Timing 10 BTDC is good starting Point. Ignitor 11 is my Preference with the matching Flamethrower Coil and take the Ballast Resistor off. Others will tell U other Suggestions.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
DryLakesRacer
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)Supercharged (4.0K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.6K, Visits: 328.9K
My Pertronix ll has been bullet proof for 6 years. I run their coil and kept the factory ballast resistor because it was optional. I did read back when I was wanting to try their system that coils were the problem so I chose to in leave the resistor. I called and they did say it was my choice and the resistor in the system the spark was just not going to be quite as hot.. 
The Chinese condensers/capacitors (2) were the problem with mine. Someone will chime in here and tell you which micro-farad capacitor you need if you want to stay with points.There will at least no point bounce with the Pertronix...Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Ted
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Co-Administrator

Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)Co-Administrator (12.5K reputation)

Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 7.2K, Visits: 203.0K
Melly (5/18/2019)
Was thinking of doing the  PerTronix  ll ignitor.  Any thought on this?  Would you do the  l  or ll ?  Hoping to get around today or tomorrow to start and check thing over.  What is the point gap and timing used for this setup? Will check against what I have.

As JLB mentions, it sounds like you have point bounce.  Back in the day, it was a common practice to cut the spring out from another set of points and wrap that inside the spring of the new set to increase the spring tension.  Depending upon the tension created, the rubbing block wear might increase to the point of being unacceptable.
 
For thoughts about switching to the Pertronix electronic conversion, my personal preference would be the Pertronix II version simply due to the known issues with the version I.  The version I does require a 1.5 ohm coil while the version II recommends a 0.6 ohm coil.  To date, I’ve installed the version II units with no ballast resistor and run a straight twelve volts to the coil.  Zero issues doing that.  Ignition timing characteristics are the same for both points and breakerless and that’s dictated by whatever engine modifications have taken place.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Melly
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)Supercharged (586 reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 200, Visits: 48.3K
Thanks for all the help.  As always y block people are the BEST.  Put new point and a condenser. retimed and seem to fixed problem.  Now if weather would cooperate will take it for test drive and see how it work on road. 
some have mentioned about putting a Pretronix ignitor ll in.  Was looking at them on web but different site recommend different numbers.. I have a 57 312 V8 57 4bl intake and  dist. which model would be used?  I come up with #912810  does this sound right?  
KULTULZ
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)Supercharged (3.4K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.4K, Visits: 272.4K
...some have mentioned about putting a Pretronix ignitor ll in.  Was looking at them on web but different site recommend different numbers.. I have a 57 312 V8 57 4bl intake and  dist. which model would be used?  I come up with #912810  does this sound right?              


Re-check the cataloging.
Should take 91281 (IGN II) 1957-1974



____________________________

oldcarmark
Posted 5 Years Ago
View Quick Profile
Supercharged

Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)Supercharged (6.0K reputation)

Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 3.6K, Visits: 32.3K
91281 is Correct. If You are also going to buy a Coil be sure its Flamethrower 2. I have had a 91281 for Years. No Problems.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg


Reading This Topic


Site Meter