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How to bleed hydrulic clutch?

Posted By Joe D 5 Years Ago
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Joe D
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I'm having trouble getting air out of the system after replacing the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. The procedure I tried was a helper depressing clutch slowly as I opened the bleeder on the slave cylinder. I closed the bleeder as the clutch pedal reached the floor. Repeated this about 150 times and 55 gallons of brake fluid were flushed through, lol!

Any suggestions?

Thanks Y Blockers!


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
charliemccraney
Posted 5 Years Ago
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That's pretty much it.

You could have air trapped in the master cylinder.  Bench bleeding before installing the master cylinder helps to prevent that.  To do that, you can clamp the cylinder into a vise, ensuring that it is level.  You then install a tube which runs from the outlet and bends around back into the reservoir, below the fluid level.  You then pump the piston until all air is removed.  Then remove the tube, install a flare plug to minimize fluid loss during installation into the vehicle.

If that's not clear, just google it.  Plenty of pictures and instructions can be found that way.


Lawrenceville, GA
Rono
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Did you bench bleed the master and slave cylinder first?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4a19e870-e870-4f63-a0a4-db5b.jpg  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID



Joe D
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No I did not bench bleed either before. I usually learn the hard way! My friend say he has a air operated power bleeder, not sure if its called that, instead of removing and starting over.

Charlie, I will watch some videos when my boss stops giving me the hairy eyeball!

Thanks,




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
charliemccraney
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An air or vacuum bleeder makes the overall job easier but it still will not remove air bubbles that may be trapped due to cylinder orientation.


Lawrenceville, GA
DryLakesRacer
Posted 5 Years Ago
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I know this will sound goofy but my son and I found the the same problem with his dirt track setup using a hydraulic TO bearing. It did not make any difference whose bearing or who's clutch we used. It happened every time. 
We learned to make sure there was fluid in the master, took the bleeder hose coming out of the bellhousing hole, cracked open the bleeder. put it in a container of brake fluid, pumped the peddle a few times, removed the line from the jar, closed the bleeder, and now we had a clutch. Works every time.
I do not know if this will work with a slave cylinder pushing on a TO bearing fork but it's all the same to me...Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Joe D
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Thanks Guys, This issue will be solved and is nothing compared to the stalling issue I had for about 9 months (valves were tightened down to much, no lash)!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs
Joe D
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Ok guys, the bleeding issue was solved. It only took three times with a helper depressing the clutch pedal slowly while I opened the slave cylinder bleeder until the pedal was to the floor. Air came out the first two times with some fluid and then solid fluid the third time. I also saw some big air bubbles coming to the top of the fluid in the master and popping. I think we had the fluid all foamed up by pimping the clutch so many times and after sitting overnight the fluid settled out.

Hope this helps someone else!
Thanks again Y Blockers!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs


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