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Leaking Valley Pan?

Posted By seishank65 3 Months Ago
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seishank65
Posted 3 Months Ago
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After a fresh rebuild my 272 y block seems to be leaking at the rear of the valley pan.  The oil seems to be running down from the back to the left of the block (drivers side)  and gets on the oil pump.  At first I thought it was the plumbing on the oil pump but it doesn't seem like it's coming from there now.  Has anyone experienced this kind of oil leak?
Rono
Posted 3 Months Ago
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This type of oil leak from the valley pan is a pretty common problem. It can happen for several reasons, one of them being over tightening the 2 valley pan bolts which warps the pan inward. The torque spec on these bolts is only 2.0 ft/lbs. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the intake manifold to get to the valley pan. Remove the valley pan and make sure the edges are flat and true. buy a new gasket, make sure all surfaces are clean and free of any old gasket and sealant and try again. Another option is to buy one of the new, aftermarket cast aluminum valley pans which are much more rigid than the originals and will not warp when the bolts are tightened.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Uploads/Images/820681b8-9d4c-46c2-9484-28c5.jpg

Ron Lane

Meridian, ID


seishank65
Posted 3 Months Ago
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Thanks for the reply Rono.  The engine is running strong after the build just that pesky oil leak that has me bummed.  Guess those bolts may have been over tightened on the valley pan.  Do you suggest using a rubber or cork gasket? 
darrell
Posted 3 Months Ago
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its hard to get them to seal if they have been warped.i always put a bead of silicone on before i sit it on and dont have any leaks ever if the cover is slightly warped.
2721955meteor
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i have simler isues, but it is coming from the rear of the oil pan,blowes back and forms a drip on bolt head of oil pump. my 292 is a truck pan which is more leak prone. a best gasket oil pan gasket would be a big help as they are thicker and beter material. i am also suspect of rear seal retainer can be the issue,retaining bolts are not all covered by the gasket so the sealing surface is minute in that arias well the 2 studs are not in ideal location as well anchered in a cast alum retainer.
seishank65
Posted 3 Months Ago
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Thanks everyone for their replies and help.  Love this site, I had been visiting this site for some time just registered.
oldcarmark
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seishank65 (2/28/2019)
After a fresh rebuild my 272 y block seems to be leaking at the rear of the valley pan.  The oil seems to be running down from the back to the left of the block (drivers side)  and gets on the oil pump.  At first I thought it was the plumbing on the oil pump but it doesn't seem like it's coming from there now.  Has anyone experienced this kind of oil leak?

Another Option to consider seeing as how it has to come apart anyway is drilling and Tapping Block for #10 Machine Screws. The Block is actually very easy to drill and Tap.One on each end and One each side would Suffice.Keeps the Pan from lifting. This was a bad Design from Ford along with the Rear Main Seal. The outside Edge of the Pan could have been stiffer which would maybe stopped the Edge lifting. Over Tightening the Bolts over the Years does cause the Pan to distort. In this Case tighter is not better.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b9ec8c4e-313b-486f-b1b0-422e.jpg http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  
PF Arcand
Posted 2 Months Ago
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As Rono points out, over tightening  is the main culprit in Valley pan leaks. Factory spec was max 3 lbs. And on a clean surface, use a good sealer on the gasket. And Check the pan edges with a straight edge before installing... Side note, if installing say a ECZ-"B" intake, it's been advised that some later gasket kits are using sealing washers that are too thick & can bottom out under the front of the intake. May requires trimming the rubber seal 1/8th" or so  to clear..    


Paul


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