Hallo all my friends in forum. I have a 56 sunliner With a low oil preasure, the warning lamp start to flash when the engine became hot. I have the engine out of the car now for overhaul and has got New bearings to the cranckshaft. The old one seems to be a little bit worn but not to much I can not see the copper on enyone of the old bearings. The cranch is like New and the oilpump is from 2016. My qoustion is could it be another explonation cosing the low preasure?
Quistion number 2. The orginal exhaust manifold to my sunliner is very clost to the brakebooster and the booster itself became very hot because the distens betveen the manifold and the booster. Is there any Place or can somebody in the forun give me the adress to a manufactor that made headers for the 56 fairline Family that does not get in  conflict With the booster.
Qouistion number 3. My sunliner has the orginal Power steering and when I am driving the car the steering Wheel start shaking in right turns, what can I  do to solv the problem. I have also tryed to adjust the velve screw Connected to seering link under the car on left side nothing helps.   Thank you so long.

Pull the cam out and check the center bearing. If is grooved they sometimes fill up with crud. If it has holes in it make sure they line up with the feed holes in the block. The header problem isn't uncommon. Red's headers (online) may help. They are similar to the early Hedman headers. Also the T-Birds came with a shield between the exhaust and the brakes. Shouldn't be that hard to make a metal shield or you could try wrapping the header tubes.  Steering sounds like the valve in the power unit is going bad. I'm not real up to snuff on the power brakes though. I think repair parts are available at the early Ford houses.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Did You verify that there was in fact Low Oil Pressure using a good Mechanical Gauge before pulling the Engine? Did the Light come on while driving or just at Idle? If You are simply going by the Red Warning Light  they are not very accurate. Did this problem just occur. And You have been driving it and not had light come on until now? You can check Bearing Clearance using Plasti-gauge to at least give an Idea of clearance. Shop Manual shows how to use Plasti-Guage. If You find any that don't seem to be within Specs You can investigate further using accurate measuring Tools. Sounds like the Brake Booster is Aftermarket and mounted on Firewall? I had an Aftermarket Booster on mine but it was only 7 Inch Diam. with Dual Diaphragm as opposed to a larger Single Diaphragm Booster. I had no problem with Heat on mine. You may have to make a Heat Shield if the Booster is too close to Manifold. Headers are only going to make the Heat Problem worse. As far as Power Steering it does sound like the Control Valve need Attention. You should get a Shop Manual as the Power Steering System is covered in Detail. Rock Auto sells a Repro Shop Manual for the best Price I have seen and ship World Wide for a good Rate.

  

Quistion number 2. The orginal exhaust manifold to my sunliner is very clost to the brakebooster and the booster itself became very hot because the distens betveen the manifold and the booster. Is there any Place or can somebody in the forun give me the adress to a manufactor that made headers for the 56 fairline Family that does not get in  conflict With the booster.

What style booster are you using? Type of MC, DISC/DRUM? Photo?

Qouistion number 3. My sunliner has the orginal Power steering and when I am driving the car the steering Wheel start shaking in right turns, what can I  do to solv the problem. I have also tryed to adjust the velve screw Connected to seering link under the car on left side nothing helps.  

I would start at the ball stud @ the control valve.



Has the system been serviced, fluid flushed, reservoir filter? No binding in linkages?

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If you are concerned about heat have you thought about sending your manifolds out to a ceramic coater to have your manifolds ceramic coated?  They will insulate against the heat nicely.  Headers are the last thing you want to use as they will reflect more heat under the hood where as thick cast iron casting manifolds will hold heat in more than the thin steel walled headers.

I would advise to look into ceramic coating your manifolds if you want to cut down on radiant heat.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Good quote about thin steel headers compared to original exhaust manifolds.