Jack I have a couple 272 blocks that might work for you,located in Circleville Ohio e mail me at cl56vic@yahoo.com  Carl

They block is the same only the bore changes. For building a little extra horse power the 272/292 block is actually a bit beefier that the 312. I don't have any plans for those blocks so you would generally have until August to decide. There are some Y-Block guys up your way. From your comment I assumed you are near Detroit. There is a fellow on the site that has quite a lot of old Y-block stuff down in southern Ohio. Maybe you could post in the classifieds. You can post for sale or wanted there. I have no doubt that you would be better off with a block in better condition. Also take a look in your account settings and put your basic location in you "signature" area. Then people will know how far away or close you are to them.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks Moonshadow.  If you could contact me at my email address jackgr@aol.com we can stay in communication.  I might be interested in one of those blocks if mine can't be saved.  I think the 272 and 292 use the same block (don't correct me if I am wrong, I have access to the same websites as you guys), only the crank and rods change.  I have the crank and rods, so would only need the block.

Hello  A friend and local engine builder warned me about rusted blocks.  Not about ID of bores but OD.  Small pits that rust through, you cant find with sonic sounder unless you hit right on it. Caused him a lot of trouble (it was a FE block).   Bill  Oregon

that block is full of pit holes i doubt if you could cut it far enough to clean up the deck.find another

RUST on the block can be totally removed. Check out de-rusting by using electrolysis on Google.
I have used it and IT WORKS. The block is submerged in water and a SMALL trickle charge is used
After 2 or 3 days the rust is GONE but no sound metal is removed. Lots of YouTube item showing
this method. Then when your finished the residue and the water ARE NOT TOXIX WASTE and
you do not have a disposal issue.
Before you invest in this block remove ALL the rust so you can judge weather or not to continue
or keep searching. Pete

Jack I have a couple of old blocks here in New Hampshire. I'm not perfectly sure what they are but can check. I'm sure I have a 272/292 with a crank. There used to be a 312 with no crank but not sure about that one. Smaller ones build better though. 272 pistons have become impossible to find but they will bore to 292 or larger without much problem. I believe these were sonic checked at one time but it was long ago and I no longer have the info. I was checking to see if I could bore them and leave enough cylinder wall for a blower. Any way if things go right I'll be heading to Bonneville in early August. We usually make a stop at Perryville, Ohio and I could bring a block etc. along on the way. You could meet us at the motel for our nightly stop and Rolling Bones cruise night. Let me know if your interested and I'll check and see exactly what I have and make a list with prices. 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks guys..  always great answers.

One thing, I don't find y-blocks everywhere.  Hunted for 6 months to find this one.  Been hunting in the Detroit metro area (where the shipping is zero) for a long time and found none.  The one I have I found in W. Va and it cost $400 to ship it.  Anyway, I have confidence in the machine shop and I am sure they will say thumbs up or down.

I do plan on milling the decks 0.010.

Rusty cylinders are always a challenge.  When it comes to rust and/or cylinder wall pitting, the problem with boring the cylinders 0.090” larger is you are only taking 0.045” off per side.  Sounds like a lot until you get into rust pitting.  On badly rusted blocks, boring oversize may not clean them up.  And then there’s the rusting of the cylinder walls on the water jacket side.  That just compounds the problem.  Rusty cylinder walls do not sonic test well if at all so the walls need to be cleaned with some pre-honing to be able to get some valid sonic test readings.  Sonic testing then will let you know if the block has the potential for some heavy boring or not.  Once the block is deemed salvageable from that standpoint, then it needs to be checked for cracks and pressure tested.  There's no end to the checking on a block with an unknown history. 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Jack Groat; This is how I salvaged a rare 1963, 289 HiPo block that looked like that. First I placed it on my engine stand. Then I sand blasted it, Yes I know that is a NO  NO . It will clean up. Use low pressure. and very fine sand. I tryed glass bend, but that did not work well. .Then after I got it part, I had to sleeve 6 cylinders.
When you sleeve a block you have to deck the block after. I had around $400.00 in the block.
There is another way to go . If you know where you can have it acid dipped. 
This worked for me.