That is a removable sleeve which simply allows the valley cover to retain the ¼-20 threaded stud in the valley cover hole so that the Thunderbird road draft tube can be installed later for originality purposes if so desired.  I normally cut the stud down within the valley cover hole for PCV valve clearance and just install a grommet in the existing hole.  It’s recommended to plumb the PCV valve to a location close the carburetor.  Tapping into the vacuum port at the back of a ECZ-B, Blue Thunder, or Mummert intake for a PCV valve creates a lean condition on those rear cylinders.  That rear port is not a problem with vacuum wipers or power brakes as those systems are not a constant air draw on the engine.  A working PCV valve will draw 3-6 cfm.  The PCV valve I use the most of for the Y-Blocks is a Microgard #2322 while the grommet is a Dorman #42323.  Here’s a picture of the PCV valve where the grommet is simply installed in the valley cover hole.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Not sure if its an added Sleeve.. You said there is already an opening in the Valley Pan You are using? All  You will need to do is get a Grommet from your local Parts store.There's several  Sizes depending on the size of the Hole. The Valve is usually One used on a 302 Ford for application. i ended up using One for a 1978 Ford Fairmont 4 Cylinder. .You may have to experiment a little to get One that doesn't flow too much Air at Idle causing a lean Mixture. Idles rough.. I don't know if You have already purchased that Carb or just decided that's the One U want to use but the 390 Holley 8007-0 has a hookup fitting for the PCV Line That saves having to drill and Tap. I have used 3 of these on my Vehicles and they work great on basically stock Engines. Electric Choke or hot Air Choke is available. Just thought I would mention it. You could also get a proper '57 "B" Manifold and save having to use an Adapter or Drill for Vacuum fitting for Power Brakes. I think Carl may have One available if You post a wanted in the Classifieds.

  

Thanks for your replies. Is that a metal sleeve welded to the valley pan opening where the grommet is inserted? Part number for the pcv valve?

The Original Teapot Intake Manifold is usually identified as an "A" Manifold. The Adapter Plate U need to put the later Holley Carb on is available from Speedway Motors. Part # 1351935B. You should also ad a 1/2" Phenolic Spacer to isolate Engine Heat Transfer. This goes between Adapter Plate and Carb. If You go this route You should drill and Tap for PCV hookup below Carb as Ted shows in Pictures.The PCV goes in the outlet in the Valley Pan and fumes are drawn into Intake below Carb. The existing Oil fill Cap will work as is Air is drawn in through Cap and circulates throgh Engine and evacuated through PCV Valve instead of Road Draft Tube. d.As I mentioned You will need to drill and Tap for Vacuum fitting in rear of Intake for Power Brake hookup. The Manifold is easy to drill and Tap as casting is not hardened.

  

The PCV valve hookup needs to be as close as possible to the carburetor to insure that the ‘spent’ vapors can be more evenly distributed to all the cylinders.  If the carburetor has no 3/8” hose port, then a spacer under the carb with a appropriate PCV hose hook up is the next best option.  Where there’s no room for a carburetor spacer, then drilling and tapping a ¼”NPT threaded hole at the intake manifold just below the carburetor would be another option.  Here are some pictures of what was done to a ECZ-A manifold for a ’56 Thunderbird to add a PCV valve.

 

 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for your response. It appears I have the A manifold so I would need to drill and tap for the adapter and pcv. Can you identify the adapter and pcv with any part number and manufacturer? Would the pcv fit into this adapter with a vacuum hose connected to the pcv and then run to either the carb spacer with vacuum inlet or the tapped intlet below the carb? Do I not use the breather hole in the valley pan at all or am I missing something? Could I use the valley pan breather hole to run a separate vacuum line to the brake booster?

Ah ok, just skimmed over it didn't catch the aftermarket carb.

If he can pull the intake off he can always drill a hole in the middle of the back of the intake and use a pipe tap on it and put a nipple on the back with a npt thread on the end.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

If You read the Post He is not using the Stock Teapot. That Carb he is using has no vacuum Port for PCV,

  

Why not just run a T off the brass vacuum fitting of the back of the carb to add an extra manifold vacuum port?

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

What Intake are U using? The "B" Manifold has a Vacuum outlet at back for Power Brake hookup. The "A" does not so U would be best to drill and Tap for a Vacuum Outlet fitting prior to installing the Manifold. If You are using that Carb U need either a "B" Manifold or an Adapter for the "A" Manifold. Adapter + PCV  Spacer Plate will raise the Air Cleaner Height. You may not have enough Room to use both and Stock Air Cleaner.The other Option is to drill and Tap for a Vacuum outlet below the Carburetor in the Intake for PCV hookup. You can block off the Road Draft outlet in the Block.The Standard Oil Fill Cap can be used or get One with a Nipple on it and run a Line to Air Cleaner if U want filtered intake Air. I just used the Standard Cap and cleaned it Once in a while..