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By Danny - 6 Years Ago
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I have a 1956 Crown Victoria with the 292 yblock which I will be having a shop rebuild. I know that there are numerous posts about how to convert from the road draft tube to a pcv system, but I have a hard time visualizing the advice being given. Some have pictures that show the installed pcv installed with the vacuum hose attached to the valve but not where the other end is connected to. So I need advice on installing the best possible pcv system for my particular setup.
I want to block off the opening at the road draft tube. I have the aluminum finned thunderbird valve covers that I would rather not hack into if possible. I will have the Mummert aluminum valley pan with the rear opening for a pcv system. I have a Holley 1848-1 4 barrel carb that does not have a vacuum source inlet. I know there are carb spacers with a vacuum inlet that can be used with this pcv modification. I am also installing a brake booster with a dual master cylinder that will need a vacuum source. I have a vented oil fill cap. My original oil bath cover has been converted to use a paper filter.
What would be my best option for installing a pcv system with this setup? Thanks in advance for the assistance.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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What Intake are U using? The "B" Manifold has a Vacuum outlet at back for Power Brake hookup. The "A" does not so U would be best to drill and Tap for a Vacuum Outlet fitting prior to installing the Manifold. If You are using that Carb U need either a "B" Manifold or an Adapter for the "A" Manifold. Adapter + PCV Spacer Plate will raise the Air Cleaner Height. You may not have enough Room to use both and Stock Air Cleaner.The other Option is to drill and Tap for a Vacuum outlet below the Carburetor in the Intake for PCV hookup. You can block off the Road Draft outlet in the Block.The Standard Oil Fill Cap can be used or get One with a Nipple on it and run a Line to Air Cleaner if U want filtered intake Air. I just used the Standard Cap and cleaned it Once in a while..
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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Why not just run a T off the brass vacuum fitting of the back of the carb to add an extra manifold vacuum port?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Rusty_S85 (12/15/2018)
Why not just run a T off the brass vacuum fitting of the back of the carb to add an extra manifold vacuum port?
If You read the Post He is not using the Stock Teapot. That Carb he is using has no vacuum Port for PCV,
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (12/16/2018)
Rusty_S85 (12/15/2018)
Why not just run a T off the brass vacuum fitting of the back of the carb to add an extra manifold vacuum port? If You read the Post He is not using the Stock Teapot. That Carb he is using has no vacuum Port for PCV,
Ah ok, just skimmed over it didn't catch the aftermarket carb.
If he can pull the intake off he can always drill a hole in the middle of the back of the intake and use a pipe tap on it and put a nipple on the back with a npt thread on the end.
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By Danny - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for your response. It appears I have the A manifold so I would need to drill and tap for the adapter and pcv. Can you identify the adapter and pcv with any part number and manufacturer? Would the pcv fit into this adapter with a vacuum hose connected to the pcv and then run to either the carb spacer with vacuum inlet or the tapped intlet below the carb? Do I not use the breather hole in the valley pan at all or am I missing something? Could I use the valley pan breather hole to run a separate vacuum line to the brake booster?
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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The PCV valve hookup needs to be as close as possible to the carburetor to insure that the ‘spent’ vapors can be more evenly distributed to all the cylinders. If the carburetor has no 3/8” hose port, then a spacer under the carb with a appropriate PCV hose hook up is the next best option. Where there’s no room for a carburetor spacer, then drilling and tapping a ¼”NPT threaded hole at the intake manifold just below the carburetor would be another option. Here are some pictures of what was done to a ECZ-A manifold for a ’56 Thunderbird to add a PCV valve.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Danny (12/16/2018)
Thanks for your response. It appears I have the A manifold so I would need to drill and tap for the adapter and pcv. Can you identify the adapter and pcv with any part number and manufacturer? Would the pcv fit into this adapter with a vacuum hose connected to the pcv and then run to either the carb spacer with vacuum inlet or the tapped intlet below the carb? Do I not use the breather hole in the valley pan at all or am I missing something? Could I use the valley pan breather hole to run a separate vacuum line to the brake booster?
The Original Teapot Intake Manifold is usually identified as an "A" Manifold. The Adapter Plate U need to put the later Holley Carb on is available from Speedway Motors. Part # 1351935B. You should also ad a 1/2" Phenolic Spacer to isolate Engine Heat Transfer. This goes between Adapter Plate and Carb. If You go this route You should drill and Tap for PCV hookup below Carb as Ted shows in Pictures.The PCV goes in the outlet in the Valley Pan and fumes are drawn into Intake below Carb. The existing Oil fill Cap will work as is Air is drawn in through Cap and circulates throgh Engine and evacuated through PCV Valve instead of Road Draft Tube. d.As I mentioned You will need to drill and Tap for Vacuum fitting in rear of Intake for Power Brake hookup. The Manifold is easy to drill and Tap as casting is not hardened.
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By Danny - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for your replies. Is that a metal sleeve welded to the valley pan opening where the grommet is inserted? Part number for the pcv valve?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Not sure if its an added Sleeve.. You said there is already an opening in the Valley Pan You are using? All You will need to do is get a Grommet from your local Parts store.There's several Sizes depending on the size of the Hole. The Valve is usually One used on a 302 Ford for application. i ended up using One for a 1978 Ford Fairmont 4 Cylinder. .You may have to experiment a little to get One that doesn't flow too much Air at Idle causing a lean Mixture. Idles rough.. I don't know if You have already purchased that Carb or just decided that's the One U want to use but the 390 Holley 8007-0 has a hookup fitting for the PCV Line That saves having to drill and Tap. I have used 3 of these on my Vehicles and they work great on basically stock Engines. Electric Choke or hot Air Choke is available. Just thought I would mention it. You could also get a proper '57 "B" Manifold and save having to use an Adapter or Drill for Vacuum fitting for Power Brakes. I think Carl may have One available if You post a wanted in the Classifieds.
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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Danny (12/16/2018)
..... Is that a metal sleeve welded to the valley pan opening where the grommet is inserted? Part number for the pcv valve?
That is a removable sleeve which simply allows the valley cover to retain the ¼-20 threaded stud in the valley cover hole so that the Thunderbird road draft tube can be installed later for originality purposes if so desired. I normally cut the stud down within the valley cover hole for PCV valve clearance and just install a grommet in the existing hole. It’s recommended to plumb the PCV valve to a location close the carburetor. Tapping into the vacuum port at the back of a ECZ-B, Blue Thunder, or Mummert intake for a PCV valve creates a lean condition on those rear cylinders. That rear port is not a problem with vacuum wipers or power brakes as those systems are not a constant air draw on the engine. A working PCV valve will draw 3-6 cfm. The PCV valve I use the most of for the Y-Blocks is a Microgard #2322 while the grommet is a Dorman #42323. Here’s a picture of the PCV valve where the grommet is simply installed in the valley cover hole.
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By Danny - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the explanation, advice and pictures. I will print this information and give it to my engine builder.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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CASCO-
I cringe at the thought of violating an origional OEM piece ... 
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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With the kit above (teapot kit)you should not have any hood clearance problems on a sedan. However, on a Bird it is very tight and clearance should be checked.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Ted (12/16/2018)
The PCV valve hookup needs to be as close as possible to the carburetor to insure that the ‘spent’ vapors can be more evenly distributed to all the cylinders. If the carburetor has no 3/8” hose port, then a spacer under the carb with a appropriate PCV hose hook up is the next best option. Where there’s no room for a carburetor spacer, then drilling and tapping a ¼”NPT threaded hole at the intake manifold just below the carburetor would be another option. Here are some pictures of what was done to a ECZ-A manifold for a ’56 Thunderbird to add a PCV valve.
I notice You have Fuel Line in place for the PCV. Do You usually use Fuel Line or PCV Hose or is this just temporary?
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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paul2748 (12/17/2018)
With the kit above (teapot kit)you should not have any hood clearance problems on a sedan. However, on a Bird it is very tight and clearance should be checked.
If the Kit above is used with an Adapter Plate to use the later Carb on an "A" Manifold as well as a Phenolic Spacer(recommended) the Stock Air Cleaner Clearance on a Sedan is going to be very close. Either use a "B" Manifold or Tap for a Fitting as Ted suggested close to the Carb Base.
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By cokefirst - 6 Years Ago
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this is just my opinion, but I would leave this as an open PCV system. That means you use the PCV valve and hook it to vacuum, but that you don't install the hose between the valve cover or oil filler cap and the air cleaner. you can also seal the lower breather by cutting off the tube that inserts through the hole in the side of the block and then use a thin metal plate between the block and the breather and use a gasket on both sides of that plate. This will make it look like the breather is on the side of the block, but it will be sealed.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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this is just my opinion, but I would leave this as an open PCV system. That means you use the PCV valve and hook it to vacuum, but that you don't install the hose between the valve cover or oil filler cap and the air cleaner.
Nah, your thinking is good. However, one has to find a quality cap that has an effective filtering media. Most of the junk I have seen recently has that plastic foam insert. IMO, you need to find one that uses a coarse metal media heavier than say an SOS pad. And of course it needs to be serviced on a regular basis.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Since you are going to require a carb adaptor & mods to your "A" manifold, you might want to aquire instead a "B" manifold which will eliminate the carb adaptor & as pointed out also has a vacuum port at the back. And using a carb adaptor can sometimes be less than ideal for performance. The B intake also performs better when the revs are up a bit.. Just a thought or two..
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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The vacuum inlet on the ECZ-B intake is meant as a vacuum source for a booster/wipers. If used for PCV, the fumes will be limited to NOS 7 & 8 cyls and will cause possible cylinder(s) fouling and the cylinders possibly running lean. You want the PCV fume ingestion to be introduced into the intake carb plenum for equal distribution to all cylinders.
The CASCO kit I showed has a 3/8" plate whereas OEM is 1/4". Instructions say specifically not to use the 55 BIRD base gasket because of the thickness.
There is little choice on the BIRD unless you use the vacuum inlet on the front of the carb plenum on the 55, adapt ingestion to the vacuum fitting on the H4000 carb base on a 56, or drill and tap as shown.
Sorry as I am a detail nut (CDO - correct alphabetical order)
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark Posted
I notice You have Fuel Line in place for the PCV. Do You usually use Fuel Line or PCV Hose or is this just temporary?
GOOD POINT!
PCV hose has to be vacuum/oil resistant rated. Some hose is rated as both vacuum/pressure. You can buy formed PCV hose with a ninety-degree angle (cut to fit) to lessen the chance of collapse and better appearance.
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