Thanks for the explanation. Since it's only a vacuum line, I can try it both ways and see what happens.

Fuel Additive(s) For CARBED (NON EVAP) ETHANOL USAGE-

Driving Season-




For STORAGE Season-

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Thanks.  I'll get some.  I drove the car with and without the vacuum advance line connected.  I can't tell a big difference so I put it back on.  It does seem to idle better with it connected.

If its on full time vacuum Port it will advance Timing at Idle which is probably why it Idles better. There's 2 different Opinions on running ported or non--ported vacuum Source. Personally I run non ported which is full time Vacuum Port. That's One reason why it will cool better at Idle because its running slightly faster turning the Water Pump. It should be hooked up.I suggested trying it disconnected to confirm it was not causing your Miss when You described how it appeared to be advancing too much when connected. High performance Engines usually run on Centrifugal Advance only due to very high lift Cams not having much Vacuum at lower RPMS. Glad You found your Problem. Sounds like You do need to clean out the Fuel Tank and Lines.Running it hard with only 1/4 Tank likely sucked up Debris from the Bottom of the Tank.

  

I"m going to buy a new gas tank for my 55 TBird.  I see prices from $150 to $350. Who has the best tank for the money?

You might check out Rock Auto. They have 2 tanks from Different Suppliers. The Spectra Tank is a popular One. That's North American Made I am pretty sure.

  

In my opinion, Sta-Bil is a bunch of crap.  In many years of using an ethanol gas mixture, I never had a problem with fuel when the cars were in storage over the winter..  My son used that crap one winter, it it screwed up his carb.





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I don't think my problem was all bad gas.  I think it was 64 years of crap and rust in the tank.  I assumed because the gas tank looked good from the outside, it had been changed.  Wrong assumption.

What the problem is that gasoline and ethanol/gas blend absorb moisture from the atmosphere. So the problem started when assembly put the first gasoline in the tank. Remember DRY-GAS?

Ethanol blended gasoline is made for modern fuel injected cars with a closed emission system (EVAP). It sucks moisture readily out of the atmosphere in an open vented system.

If you found sediment in your carb fuel bowl, you have two problems, an ineffective fuel filter and corrosion and sediment in the tank. If the tank has accumulated sediment, the fuel filter blockage should stop the engine.

Something to think about-

I once worked for a station owner that ran out of fuel. Delivery was a few days off. He put a water hose into the pot to raise the gasoline level to still sell gas. Can you imagine when the fuel delivery came and dropped fuel into the pots what the gas/water ratio was until the water settled?

Also never buy fuel at a station where a delivery truck is dropping. It stirs sediment in the tanks and guess where it goes when you pump gas?

Carbed/open vented cars need some type of fuel stabilizer or you need to install a gas/water separator which will protect anything after the filter but not the tank. A nice feature on early cars was a spigot to drain water out of a gas tank.

So a blatant statement is fine against additives but you need to think what the ramifications may be. Your car and money.

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Does your distributor still have its point plate ground? Ground for the Pertronix needs to be good - right back to the block or battery. Trying to ground through the moveable point plate  - without the little braided ground strap - the resistance of the bearing/pivot can be variable and disrupt the electronics.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona