I need to pick the brains of some of the old timers that has done this before.  My 56 intake manifold is currently off the car, going to clean it up and touch it up paint wise to make it look a little bit more presentable.  How ever when I tried to take the old holley 4000 off the elbows got bumped and broke the choke tube off flush with the intake manifold.

I have the tool that you are supposed to use to remove them I don't think removing the choke tube is a problem but I am not sure how one goes about installing the new one.

Looking at the new tube one side has a raised lip like its a stop point but that raised lip appears to be thinner than the other side so is it just as simple as finding which side has the larger opening and using a soft brass hammer and tap the thing in till its flush?  Or is there some trick to it?  Want to get this stuff put on first before I paint so I can paint the tubes like the old ones were.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

You are correct, just tap it in.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

To determine which way it is driven in, match it up on the bench with the adjoining parts (brass elbows) .



Does your replacement tube lokk like this NOS one?

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Thanks for the reply that's what I was thinking taking and using the elbows and pieces from the choke kit I bought few years ago find out which way the tube goes so I know how to hammer it in.  Just wasn't sure if you had to weave it through the exhaust port then line it up and tap it back.  I assumed it was just line it up and tap it in place through and through.

I just have to wait till I get my new inlet choke tube as I want to line it all up before I go tapping the elbows into place with the carb.  then I will pull the carb and brush paint the intake before I install it.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I think mine does, mine might be a little slimmer how ever on the thick end compared to your photo but heres a photo of mine in the bag still.  Hopefully this Tapco heat tube is correct and doesn't give me trouble, the tapco repackaged choke inlet tube is misshapen to where it wont even hook up to the grommet in the bottom of the carb.


Tapco choke inlet


and the one I got coming in on thrusday from Larry`s



1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

See if these pics help.
 

 

 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for the reply, those pics help greatly.  I think my choke inlet tube is not bent right.  it looks like the part that goes on the elbow is vertical then the part that goes up into the carb is vertical as well.  Mine you hold the piece that goes into the elbow vertical the other piece goes to a 45.

One question though I got my heat tube out, was a pita, started hammering on it and the thing split in the manifold but I got it out.  I wanted to ask the new tube falls in easily to the stop point, I am assuming you slide to the stop point then when you tap the brass elbow piece in to seat it fully it flares the heat tube out to create the seal correct?

Might be why my old tube broke cause the elbow snapped off in the heat tube itself on both ends.

I haven't hammered the elbows in just yet cause oddly enough the shop manuals don't detail the installation of this and don't want to start on something that might not be correct.  I am also curious do you put the elbow in first and then install the inlet and outlet tubes or do you hold the inlet and outlet tubes and hammer the 90 elbows into the tube first?

Kind of curious how you are expected to get the tubes fully seated and flared onto the elbows to create the seal needed to prevent a vacuum leak.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

THANX TED!

Those photos show a lot of forgotten detail.

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well I got most of the car finished today.  Not too happy with how the choke tubes all fit together.  the fresh air inlet it had a nice positive feel you had to twist and press down to get it fully seated.  the elbows how ever they nearly fall in on their own, the choke outlet one to the choke coil itself that one will fall out if you turn the manifold over.  then there is the choke outlet tube to the choke coil that thing wouldn't fit I had to put it in the vice and tweak it as best as I could.

But I got it together just need to hit the auto parts store tomorrow for a gallon of green coolant and I need to get a jesus clip for the dist, the old one snapped when I went to go put it in on the vacuum advance.  I also need to pick up a 1/2 dist wrench as mine disappeared but didn't bother me as everything I have is 9/16 well now I need the half so I haven't torqued the intake down yet as I need to look up what the specs are and then see if the dist will spin if not then I will pull the intake off and try to get the dist free.

But some photos though, intake manifold makes the rest of the engine look bad.  but its a all original car though engine hasn't been pulled so cant fault that.  Another thing is I am not too happy with this carb, I didn't send my original one out cause the guy was behind like 5 weeks.  I bought this from a carb shop here in Texas, I left a message cause the choke housing itself on the carb, its like the old one on mine is, I think its cause of how horribly the choke tube lines up, but I couldn't that choke housing cause the bottom was broken off so I couldn't even get the choke tube to fit.

Disassembly of the new choke housing to put my old choke housing on found they used a spring as a spacer for the fast idle cam so I swapped the spacer from my old holley 4000 over, then I found they didn't even put a gasket between the choke housing and the carb for the vacuum passage so I had to rob one out of my holley 4000 rebuild kit I got.  I am not too impressed with that I hope I don't have any more problems with this carb if I can just get it to be good enough to drive around for a bit I will mail my original one off to that guy to be restored then swap them out.  I also have to figure out the stud arrangement on this carb, this has a different bowl top than my old one even though they both are the same list number on the back.  I tried transferring my stud adapter piece over but it got snug by finger with a good 1/16" between the top of the bowl fitting and my stud adapter so I didn't want to force it.












1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi