I use the neoprene 2 piece seal with the neoprene side seals along with the included "nails" with 100% success.  I always use a sealer on any threaded bolt or stud threaded into a  hole open to the crankcase. I don't remember if the holes for the 2 long bolts securing the lower seal retainer to the block are blind holes or not. But if they are open to the crankcase, this could be a potential leak. Ditto for the 2 oil pan studs threaded into the retainer. Again, I don't remember if these are blind holes or not, just something to be aware of. Also, I apply a small dab of sealer at the corner where the retainer meets the engine block. My favorite sealer is Ultra Copper RTV..  It fills voids very well, is very forgiving if any oil is left on the threads and will allow  easy disassembly.  Should I have the pleasure of rebuilding another Y-Block, I will do the above again. Ted dies an excellent job explaining this on his web site also. Just my $.02 - hope this helps, JEFF.....................
Forgot to mention, my engine is a '64 292.



64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Hello Jeff. I did my last 292 following Ted's Instructions as You did and still had Oil dripping. Filling the Sides with Sealant seems to be a recent "Fix" for Y-Blocks. This "Right Stuff" sounds like a great Product that may give a more consistent result. The use of Side Seals in various Configurations has been around for 60 Years with mixed Results. If a few more People would try an Alternative like filling with sealant it would give a better Idea of whether or not it works consistently. That being said I have this Engine on the Stand and maybe that would give Me better Odds of Success using Side Seals as Instructed by Ted. The last One I did was a "redo" lying under the Car. Still thinking about it. Thanks for your Input.

  

expensive is all i remember.been a long time i started getting the fel pro kits but they can be a pain.just buy good stuff that will stand heat and you will have no trouble.i started using it after the street rodder y block build back in 99.that was the greatest y block build ever put in print.

Genuinerod Posted -

"The iron piece part number is EBU-6335-B"

Is that the CASTING ID on the retainer or the FORD SERVICE PN?

THANX!

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FlexShot
Can withstand temperatures from -76°F to 350°F.
If you think your engine will get to 350 degrees F, don't use it!


"FREE SAMPLE"

Thanks for the Suggestion. I will pass on this Product. Everything I read about it online is not good. Right Stuff sounds like a better Bet for Automotive use..

  

Lots of Info disappeared from Original 49-61 MPC to the Condensed 49-59 Set.I have One Set of the Original Catalogs and the Condensed Issue Set for Sale if anyone is interested.

  

This is an NOS item and  the number (EBU-6335-B) is on the Ford box although EBU is cast into the piece.  

THANK YOU for getting back.

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      oldcarmark

Need the publication dates on the catalogs, especially the date(s) on the bottom of the pages of the loose leaf version.

What I am looking for is more likely in the CHASSIS CATALOGS of the early years.

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