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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I am going to replace the Rear Main Seal on my 292. Using Neoprene Seal. I seem to recall a couple of People here have used a Sealant like Ultra Black or "Right Stuff" to fill the Side Seal Area and not used Side Seals at all. Any Opinions on this. I read somewhere that its not actually the Crank Seal that Leaks in many Cases but the Side Seals. Ted-any thoughts about this Idea?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 6 Years Ago
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Mark, while you're there, check the rear main bearing. If it is worn excessively, the seal is more likely to leak.
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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I’m familiar with the practice of using RTV for the side seals but have not done that myself. Those instances where I’ve heard that being performed was done so while the engine was on an engine stand and upside down. Doing the side seals with RTV with the engine in the chassis could be a challenge.
I use the Best Gasket rear seal kits almost exclusively on the Y engines and do not use the Fel-Pro side seals. Even on the Ford FE engines, the Fel-Pro side seals are a challenge. The Fel-Pro side seals are ‘thicker’ which gives difficulty in getting the side seals pushed all the way down into the grooves
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By Lord Gaga - 6 Years Ago
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Get a can of 'FlexShot'. Menards sells it. Check it out, it's neoprene rubber, adheres well, high temp. (can withstand temperatures from -76°F to 350°F.), resists fuel better than RTV, comes in a pressurized can with a tip that will get all the way into the side seal void. (I don't own any stock etc. etc.)
I used Ultra Black when I changed a leaking main seal on my 312, engine in place, gravity was not a factor. As I said, if I have to do another one, I'd use F.S. after having tested it on other projects.
Those side seals are a real pain to install correctly and a Mickey Mouse design to begin with!
I believe Ford would have used one of these modern products for the purpose if they were available back in the day. Best wishes.
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By Genuinerod - 6 Years Ago
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I have a NOS seal retainer for a 239/256 engine that has a rubber side seal that also circles the retainers bolts. It is a one year only part and is made of iron like the mains. I don't know why Ford didn't continue making this part other than cost. The iron piece part number is EBU-6335-B. This retainer looks to be perfect for side sealing as well as for the surface mating to the block. No RTV needed. Best Gaskets and Felpro make seals for this retainer. I sure Ted has seen this retainer and would know of any issues for it's use.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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ive used it a couple of times and no leaks.ted is right about the fel pro side seals.the last time i used them it took me half an hour and by that time any sealant you put on the bottom was more or less gone.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Genuinerod Posted -
"I have a NOS seal retainer for a 239/256 engine that has a rubber side seal that also circles the retainers bolts. It is a one year only part and is made of iron like the mains. I don't know why Ford didn't continue making this part other than cost."
I wonder if the seal was made for the early DIF engines (239/256) rather than the CLV?
So much early info was deleted from the 49/59 MPC that early engine info is difficult to come across.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Lord Gaga (11/14/2018)
Get a can of 'Flex Seal'. Menards sells it. Check it out, it's neoprene rubber, adheres well, high temp., resists fuel better than RTV, comes in a pressurized can with a tip that will get all the way into the side seal void. (I don't own any stock etc. etc.) I used Ultra Black when I changed a leaking main seal on my 312, engine in place, gravity was not a factor. As I said, if I have to do another one, I'd use F.S. after having tested it on other projects. Those side seals are a real pain to install correctly and a Mickey Mouse design to begin with! I believe Ford would have used one of these modern products for the purpose if they were available back in the day. Best wishes.
Flex Seal is not meant to be used in Situations where Temperature gets higher than 200 Degrees if even that. Meant for more Household Repairs. Just did some research online. Nice Idea but it would melt at Engine Temperature. I think "Right Stuff" is a much better Bet. Designed for Automotive use and will stand up to high Temperature. "Ultra Black" as You have already used looks like it works also. I am going to go with this "Sealant" Idea instead of Seals and see how it works out. From what I have found from the few who have gone this way it seems to have a good success Rate. As Someone else noted if the Products that are around Today were available when these Engines were new I think Ford would have used them? Still looking for anyone's Input to my Question.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (11/14/2018)
Mark, while you're there, check the rear main bearing. If it is worn excessively, the seal is more likely to leak.
Thanks for the Suggestion John. I have some Plastigage somewhere from when I did an Engine 10 Years ago. I would really like to do this Repair this Time and get no Leaks. Looking for Anyone's Input who want's to Offer it.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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darrell (11/14/2018)
ive used it a couple of times and no leaks.ted is right about the fel pro side seals.the last time i used them it took me half an hour and by that time any sealant you put on the bottom was more or less gone.
What Sealant did You use that worked?
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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I use the neoprene 2 piece seal with the neoprene side seals along with the included "nails" with 100% success. I always use a sealer on any threaded bolt or stud threaded into a hole open to the crankcase. I don't remember if the holes for the 2 long bolts securing the lower seal retainer to the block are blind holes or not. But if they are open to the crankcase, this could be a potential leak. Ditto for the 2 oil pan studs threaded into the retainer. Again, I don't remember if these are blind holes or not, just something to be aware of. Also, I apply a small dab of sealer at the corner where the retainer meets the engine block. My favorite sealer is Ultra Copper RTV.. It fills voids very well, is very forgiving if any oil is left on the threads and will allow easy disassembly. Should I have the pleasure of rebuilding another Y-Block, I will do the above again. Ted dies an excellent job explaining this on his web site also. Just my $.02 - hope this helps, JEFF.....................
Forgot to mention, my engine is a '64 292.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (11/14/2018)
I use the neoprene 2 piece seal with the neoprene side seals along with the included "nails" with 100% success. I always use a sealer on any threaded bolt or stud threaded into a hole open to the crankcase. I don't remember if the holes for the 2 long bolts securing the lower seal retainer to the block are blind holes or not. But if they are open to the crankcase, this could be a potential leak. Ditto for the 2 oil pan studs threaded into the retainer. Again, I don't remember if these are blind holes or not, just something to be aware of. Also, I apply a small dab of sealer at the corner where the retainer meets the engine block. My favorite sealer is Ultra Copper RTV.. It fills voids very well, is very forgiving if any oil is left on the threads and will allow easy disassembly. Should I have the pleasure of rebuilding another Y-Block, I will do the above again. Ted dies an excellent job explaining this on his web site also. Just my $.02 - hope this helps, JEFF..................... Forgot to mention, my engine is a '64 292.
Hello Jeff. I did my last 292 following Ted's Instructions as You did and still had Oil dripping. Filling the Sides with Sealant seems to be a recent "Fix" for Y-Blocks. This "Right Stuff" sounds like a great Product that may give a more consistent result. The use of Side Seals in various Configurations has been around for 60 Years with mixed Results. If a few more People would try an Alternative like filling with sealant it would give a better Idea of whether or not it works consistently. That being said I have this Engine on the Stand and maybe that would give Me better Odds of Success using Side Seals as Instructed by Ted. The last One I did was a "redo" lying under the Car. Still thinking about it. Thanks for your Input.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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expensive is all i remember.been a long time i started getting the fel pro kits but they can be a pain.just buy good stuff that will stand heat and you will have no trouble.i started using it after the street rodder y block build back in 99.that was the greatest y block build ever put in print.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Genuinerod Posted -
"The iron piece part number is EBU-6335-B"
Is that the CASTING ID on the retainer or the FORD SERVICE PN?
THANX!
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By Lord Gaga - 6 Years Ago
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FlexShot
Can withstand temperatures from -76°F to 350°F.
If you think your engine will get to 350 degrees F, don't use it! 
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the Suggestion. I will pass on this Product. Everything I read about it online is not good. Right Stuff sounds like a better Bet for Automotive use..
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/14/2018)
Genuinerod Posted - "I have a NOS seal retainer for a 239/256 engine that has a rubber side seal that also circles the retainers bolts. It is a one year only part and is made of iron like the mains. I don't know why Ford didn't continue making this part other than cost." I wonder if the seal was made for the early DIF engines (239/256) rather than the CLV? So much early info was deleted from the 49/59 MPC that early engine info is difficult to come across.
Lots of Info disappeared from Original 49-61 MPC to the Condensed 49-59 Set.I have One Set of the Original Catalogs and the Condensed Issue Set for Sale if anyone is interested. 
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By Genuinerod - 6 Years Ago
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This is an NOS item and the number (EBU-6335-B) is on the Ford box although EBU is cast into the piece.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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THANK YOU for getting back.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark
Need the publication dates on the catalogs, especially the date(s) on the bottom of the pages of the loose leaf version.
What I am looking for is more likely in the CHASSIS CATALOGS of the early years.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Just love this Forum Format...
Can you give the Publication Date(s) of the bound editions and an earliest date on the bottom of the loose leaf pages?
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