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wtb t-85

Posted By denny 6 Years Ago
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denny
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Looking for T-85 OD transmission. In good working condition or will settle for a T-85 3 speed. Mine is a T-85 C-1A that I'm looking to replace. Found that my R-11 OD unit is shot. If anyone has a rebuilt one for sale or possibly the R-11 OD unit. Please contact me. Thanks
cos
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hello  What exactly are you looking for. There is many different styles. Input,output lenght,speedo gear placement, etc.  I have several I have robbed parts from. What parts do you need for OD unit?  Bill Oregon
denny
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Not sure yet. I took mine to a local trans shop to have the tail shaft cleaned because the yoke didn't slide in very easy . He took the tail of the tranny off and found a bunch of pieces in the rotary clutch (towards the front of the tailpiece). Mine is a T-85C-1A 16 tooth wide spline, 1 3/8 outside diameter output shaft. R11-1E OD The tailshaft alone is 19 5/8th long. I would be happy to send pictures, it would be easier for me to send pics from my phone. If you send me your email address I will send them.
Hoosier Hurricane
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If the pieces that fell out are a bunch of bearing rollers, guessing about 5/16 diameter and 3/4 inch long, that is normal.  Is the shop guy familiar with overdrives?  Was the overdrive working before he took it apart?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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denny
Posted 6 Years Ago
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No the shop is not famillar with overdrives. Yes the pieces are as you described with some other piece ,looks like part of a bearing race? Ive been told its the planatery in the od that let go.also not sure if it worked prior to my install,I purchased at a swap meet and was told it was good. Do you know if a r-10  and r-11 are inter changeable?
miker
Posted 6 Years Ago
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The R10 is a lot lighter duty than the R11, and even if it fits you probably don’t want one behind a T-85. You need to get the proper manual, or find a someone whose familiar with those. There’s a couple tricks to getting them back together but it’s been so many years that I’ll let someone else chime in.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
Hoosier Hurricane
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The R10 and the R11 are physically different sizes.  The bearing rollers are about the onl things that interchange.  None of the planetary components interchange.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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denny
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thanks guys ,I will continue the search.  Does anyone know of a good rebiulder ?  Never driven one of these od,s but think it would be the ultimate cruiser.
miker
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Be nice to know your location, they’re a bit heavy to shop. You’re right, they make a great combination for around town and then on the highway.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
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denny (10/19/2018)
Not sure yet. I took mine to a local trans shop to have the tail shaft cleaned because the yoke didn't slide in very easy . He took the tail of the tranny off and found a bunch of pieces in the rotary clutch (towards the front of the tailpiece). Mine is a T-85C-1A 16 tooth wide spline, 1 3/8 outside diameter output shaft. R11-1E OD The tailshaft alone is 19 5/8th long. I would be happy to send pictures, it would be easier for me to send pics from my phone. If you send me your email address I will send them.


Denny.  I'd wager that your T-85C-1A transmission with a R11-1E overdrive extension housing came out of a 1955 or 1956 Mercury car.  That said, the R11-1E overdrive extension housing was also used on 1955 & 1956 Packards!  I don't know the transmission case info for the Packards without digging.  Info. source is the 32nd edition of The Hollander Manual (of interchangeable car & truck parts), Table of Contents, Group (section) 11, Page 94-100.

Note:  '55 Mercs used a 6 volt solenoid for engaging the overdrive mechanism while '56 Mercs used a 12 volt solenoid.  The voltage rating is stamped in the center of the solenoid housing at the opposite end from where it bolts to the o/d housing.  The 12 volt solenoid housing is stamped (part #) AR11-62 on the perimeter edge of the housing cover.  The 6 volt solenoid housing is stamped (part #) 10AR10B-62 (I believe) in the same location.

John (Hoosier Hurricane) 's inquiry about how familiar the transmission shop was with '50's - '60's or before overdrive transmissions was very appropriate.

I'm no transmission expert, but have worked on a number of Borg Warner FoMoCo application 3 speed and 3 speed overdrive units.
Things I'd look at in your R-11 unit -

A.  The overdrive extension shaft (Part No. AR11-2F Mainshaft assembly) that the drive shaft yoke slides onto has a bearing race housing at the opposite end that the 'Freewheel Cam Assembly' operates within.  (Note: this is a '55-'56 Mercury '56-'57 T'Bird only assembly; the Packard assembly is AR11-2E) 
1)  Check the 16 spline extension housing mainshaft for crud and also check the female spline of your driveshaft yoke to see if those splines are cruded-up.
2)  Check the interior surface of the mainshaft bearing race housing for smoothness / uniformity.  IF it feels like it has a 'washboard-like surface' it is worn and the mainshaft assembly should be replaced with a mainshaft assembly that has a race housing that is uniformly smooth.

B.  The 'Freewheel Cam Assembly' (Part No. AR11-46) is mounted on the end of the T-85 transmission MainShaft.  The 'Free Wheeling Cam Assembly' can be removed after removing the 'C' snap ring on the end of the T-85 trans. mainshaft.  The 'Cam Assembly' operates inside the mainshaft bearing race housing and has 12 caged roller bearings that ride on 12 inclined surfaces. 
1)  Check the roller bearings for smoothness, pitting, and cylindrical uniformity (roll them on a piece of glass). 
2)  Check the cam assembly's 12 bearing incline ramps for smoothness and incline surface uniformity / integrity.

In short, IF the 'Freewheel Cam Assembly' bearings or ramps have problems, you are very apt to have problems with the the bearing race surface of the main shaft bearing housing.

C.  The Planetary Gear Assembly has four planetary gears.  The 'Free Wheeling Cam Assembly' and the Planetary Gear Assembly can be removed after removing the 'C' snap ring on the end of the T-85 trans. mainshaft. 
1)  After removing the Planetary Gear Assembly from the T-85 transmission mainshaft, check to see IF each of the four gears rotate freely AND look to see IF any of the individual gears are missing gear teeth, are chewed, or discolored.  Discoloration is caused by overheating.  Discoloration color may be a shade of tan, bright blue or bright purple.  When I've found a problem, I've replaced the entire caged planetary gear assembly (Part No. AR11-30).

D.  IF you found a problem with the gears in the Planetary Gear Assembly, in particular broken or chewed teeth, be sure to check the Ring Gear (Part No. R6-6) that is attached to the extension housing main shaft adjacent to the bearing race housing for the 'Free Wheeling Cam Assembly'.

E.  With the Planetary Gear Assembly removed, the Sun Gear Assembly can be slid-off the T-85 trans. mainshaft to inspect it for any problems with it's gear teeth.  Look for gear teeth damage or discoloration of the gear assembly.  The Sun Gear Assembly is Part No. AR11-4 

MANY R-11 internal parts are interchangeable.  R-11 overdrives have been used on '58 Edsels, '56 & '57 312 Fords, '58 & '59 Ford 332s & 352s, '60 & '61 Ford 352s, '61 Ford 390s, '62 & '63 352s, 390s, and 406s, '55-'58 Mercs, '56-'60 T''Birds.  This listing is not complete as my Hollander is the 1966 edition.

In addition to the above wholesale interchangeable components, there are specific R-11 parts like the AR11-30 Planetary Gear Assembly that are identical in Hudson, Nash, Packard, Rambler, and Studebaker applications!  The parts are out there, IF you know what will interchange.

Damage to Borg Warner R-10s and R-11s is often traced to insufficient lubricant levels OR to the use of an incorrectly rated or formulated lubricant.  Use only ALL mineral based SAE 90 API Service GL-1 fluid.  Synthetic lublicants do not provide the friction factor needed for proper transmission component operation per Borg Warner original design parameters. 

Hope this helps!   Smile


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York


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