The only suggestion I haven't seen is to move the seat all the way forward.  It lengthens the motor assembly allowing you to lift the seat a little more to get at it.

Thanks miker 🚗

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

I think Paul gave the best description on how to pull the seat. Taking the backrest off first is a better idea than I’ve had. IIRC, the center motor is the up down, and it can stay in place. But the motor under the drivers seat (for/aft) I couldn’t get to the pin that released the motor from the frame, only the pin to the floor pan. So that motor got the wiring disconnected and it went out with the seat. If I had the backrest off, I probably could have lifted the seat enough to get the other pin out. That’s how I’ll try it if I have to do it again. My advice about disconnecting the battery still stands. If you have the seat up, so you can get under it, it will fall to the low position when you disconnect the center motor. So use some blocks or caution when you do that.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

No, it’s been too long.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Hello Daniel,
Do you remember if any wires need to be disconnected or is it just hardware.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

When I was 17, I removed the seat from my bird alone. At 65, I needed help. Seems to me I had the seat raised and forward and when I disconnected the motor/drive mechanism something shifted. Watch out for your hands and arms.

It’s been a long time since I rewired mine, but I think the key only shuts off the control circuit, so the power wire to the relays are hot. Disconnect the battery before you get to messing around back there. And mark the wires when you disconnect the motor from the relay.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I removed and reinstalled the seat all by myself. Don’t remember it being an especially challenging project.
I had a local auto upholsterer install a leather seat cover kit (with new foam) from Larry’s. He said getting it right was the hardest job he ever tackled!

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Really, as i mentioned above, the bitchy part is removing and reinstalling the  mechanism under the seat.  The rest is pretty easy.
One way to get rid of the problem with the angled rear studs (removing and reinstalling) is to remove the rear studs and use nuts and bolts.  While I don't remember when I took out my seat and reinstalled it (on a 56) a hassle because of the angled studs.  But I had a problem with a friends 55 when I helped him with his car.

But if you don't intend to remove the seat again then leave it as it is.





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks Paul, it sounds like a nightmare.

1955 312 T-Bird Warwick, NY

I have the seat out of my 55 TBird right now.  It went pretty much as described above.  I was surprised at how much force I had to use to pull the seat out of the floor.  The rear studs angle back and the threads tend to hold the seat in, especially if it has never been removed before.  Fiddling with the clips where the seat frame connects to the power arms is a challenge.  Bring some beer.