Hi all - first time posting here and first time trying my luck at building a tri-power Y Block - please help me put this thing together!

Looking for some info on the cams that I have and perhaps some suggestions of a more suitable cam should this one be far off my application. Also have a few more questions - want to try make educated decisions before throwing everything together on a thumb suck.

I'm building my late dad's '34 Ford 3 window coupe and decided to throw out the Windsor and go the traditional route with the whole build. I came across 292 in pieces from another project that had changed hands, it came with a bunch of parts for quite a good deal and I'm now spoiled for choice in a few areas (I could probably put a few motors together with all this stuff). The machine work on the block and one of the sets of heads was already done. The motor will be backed up by a 4 speed toploader (wide ratio) and a 9" rearend currently housing 3.00 gears. Tires at the rear are 29.5" tall Firestone bias plys.

To give the most info for accuracy sake, this is what i'm sitting with (apologies in advance if this turns into a long post):

• C2AE 292 block, bored out 0.080 to 3.830 (from John Mummert's site this pushes displacement to 304.1ci)
• 1 x rebuilt set of ECZ-G heads. Not "posted"heads. They have been milled and definitely looks like they have had bigger valves installed.
• 2 x extra sets of ECZ-G heads, also not posted, both of these have ECG6564 high ratio rocker assemblies, one with self locking and the other with jamb nut adjuster screws.
• Edelbrock 573 intake manifold
• Fenton DM425 intake manifold
• New set of forged 10cc dome pistons made by Probe Industries. It appears that this company has closed down? Again, from John's site with a .080 overbore these should push compression to 9.4 with G heads.
• 2 x new Stromberg 97 Carbs, third one yet to be purchased
• Ram Horn exhaust manifolds
• Almost all other parts to complete the build (full gasket set - looks like Best Gasket, Quick Time bellhousing, Flywheel & pressure plate from Modern Drive Line, Powermaster starter, Rollmaster timing chain, Hastings moly rings, all bearings ARP bolts etc etc).

My main question involves the cam. I'm looking to achieve strong yet reliable street performance out of this lot. The kit came with two new Isky camshafts, one is a 301333 and the other has a grind number of S-934. I've attached a scan of the spec sheet that came with the S-934 cam. Does anyone recognize this cam and can shed some light on whether it will fit my application? I can't seem to find any info on this specific grind, except that it seems pretty similar to the Isky 301505 advertised on Summit, save that the lobe separation angle is 107*. Reading cam sheets is still like reading Mandarin to me but I have a feeling that this one is a bit too wild / not really a street cam? 

Otherwise, can someone vouch for a good cam for a 3x2, manual trans set up in a light vehicle? Both intake manifolds are in good shape, but will most probably be going with the Edelbrock 573 to start because there is a lot more info on it (thanks Ted).

The kit came with a Mallory YD-350 distributor and an Accel points eliminator kit (pictures attached). Again I can't seem to find much info on this unit. I don't mind spending a bit extra and buying an MSD ready to run distributor - I figured when i buy the third Stromberg I'd go for the one with ported vacuum so that i have this option from the start. Will this be a more direct fit approach?

The company that made the forged pistons (Probe Industries) seems to have closed down - is this correct? Does anyone recognize these pistons?

Finally, can anyone tell me the advantages / disadvantages of direct vs progressive linkage on a 3x2 configuration - which is used in which application and why?

Just a note to say thanks to the contributors in this forum, it has already been a huge help in learning about these great engines.

Graham

From what I understand, C2 blocks have thinner cylinder walls than earlier versions.  It would be wise to have it sonic checked before going ahead with the build, unless you already have documentation showing that it has been done.

301333 is an RPM-300, http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=406.  Your spec sheet doen't match the 301333 specs so maybe it is a custom grind.

Mummert had pistons made by Probe at one point.  I have a set in my engine.  They work.  That's all I know about them.


Lawrenceville, GA

Here’s a link to Joe’s latest test with Ted on the edelbrock. The 573 shows up late in the article, there’s some interesting notes on the typical air cleaners. There’s more intake test on Ted’s site Eaton balancing.

http://www.eatonbalancing.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/YBlock-146-Craine-3X2-Test.pdf

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Thank you sir, I will definitely have the block sonic tested before assembly. I'll also need to CC the heads as they have been through the grinder and I'm not sure how much the machine shop took off.

I have both the 301333 and the S-934 which is the spec sheet attached. I suspected it might be a custom grind, but i wanted to find out a bit more on this one. I noticed that the specs look almost identical to John's Y-280-I-07 cam which is as follows:

PART #	RPM range	Idle quality	Duration.020"	Duration .050"	Valve Lift	Separation	Springs	Transmission	Lash
Y-280-I-07	2200-6000		254	228	.500	107		Stick or hi-stall	.016

Y-280-I-07     Headers recommended. Manual or stall converter.

Hi miker

Thanks for sharing that article, I had read Ted's previous 3x2 tests on his page but that article had some good info. Really interesting about how air cleaners can affect HP.

As mentioned I will be going with the Edelbrock 573 to start, but it's nice to have the Fenton to play around with down the line. Thanks again

First, welcome to the site.. You've come quite organized, which will help with getting workable directions. Re the rebuilt heads; The corner tabs originally should have been approx. 1" thick. So you want to check them for the milling. On non posted "G" heads, our co administrator, Ted (Eaton) does not recomend going beyond 0.025 thou milling. (maybe less with popup pistons?) Ford only recommended 0.010 max. If they are over milled they can be retro posted, but you'd need to get info on that. It's available here somewhere.. I'll leave some of the other stuff to others on this site with more practicle experience..       


Paul

The S-934 looks like a custom lobe was used from their lobe catalog.. That is a very very aggressive cam and likely to be hard on parts . Also a 107 lobe separation will give a rough idle. You do not want this cam on a 3x2 setup as you will be fighting to get it to idle and run decently at lower engine speeds. You need a cam that idles with a lot of vacuum.. something on a 112 lobe center. Shoot for something with around 270 advertised duration, 220 duration at .050, .500 lift, and no less than 110 lobe separation angle

Re the cam specs listed:
I don't think that's too wild a cam at all.
228 @ .050 is not too radical, especially in a 4 speed car.

 I would be more concerned with the rear axle ratio & tire size.
The 4 speed has a first gear ratio of 2.78. Couple that with the 3.0 axle
and the acceleration will be sluggish, at best. Maybe something in the
3.5 or better range.
Don't line up at a stoplight with a Honda

I think RB's concern was the 107 LSA.. Mummert also sells that cam with a 111 LSA, which mite be better on the idle & low end?  Also to take advantage of the cam & Tri power, the heads should be at least mildly ported. However, if you don't have any knowledge in that area, Y heads don't take kindly to just being hogged out. Best get good advice in that area. Possibly some arrangement could be made with Joe D. Craine?. Or if you are flush, consider Mummert heads.. 


Paul