Hello All

   I know this has probably been asked, but I was just outside looking at the 292
and  decided to do some cleaning on it.. I removed the 2 hold down bolts, but found the pan is under the lip
of the head. then i thought  (light on) just remove the Dist and slide it out.. (light out)
  So then I come in and check the net for info... (DIY) site   put hammer handle under  and lift
Really!!!!!
   So how do you get the Valley Pan out without removing the heads..
Also.. My 292 is a 64 truck motor... I have the oil dipstick in the side of the block, but I also have a hole up front 
 on the block seems to be for a dipstick is open right now.  Can the dipstick me moved forward?
Does anyone make a dipstick for the Y block?  Who
Best

The hammer handle method might be ok if it is just barely caught under the head but if it is far enough under that it will obviously bend the pan, then your only option is to remove one head.  This is pretty common, particularly if the engine has been rebuilt and the heads or block have been machined.  When you reinstall, you can remove material from the pan to ensure that it can be removed with the heads in place in the future.


Lawrenceville, GA

thanks Charlie
   I get my sledge hammer!  hahaha
 I would really like to know what went on inside the head of some of these engineers?
But I always thought that Ford built cars and engines the average man could work on..
Best, and thanks again

Generally, I have been able to remove the valley pan w/o removing a head.  What you have to do is make sure the pan is loose, and them move it to one side while pulling it up on the other side. After is clears, then push to the other side.   The thing that makes it harder is the splash pan attached to the bottom which limits upward movement when the pan is tilted..

Before reinstalling, I trimmed or removed most of the splash pan to give me more room to manuver.  The last few times I purchased Mummert's aluminum pan and they went on without the problem with the sides, but had to make a groove in the front for  thermostat housing  clearance.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks Paul for that info..
   I did get the pan out... The guy who previously owned the engine must have had stock in an RTV company!!!!
Best
  

one think you often see is people putting the heads on during a rebuild and put the valley cover on after.this was done on charles morriss y block book but you see it all the time.its also hard to keep the gasket in place.cant figure that one out.

On this subject. Is it recomended to use a sealent when installing the valley pan?  If so, which one?


Paul

I drilled and tapped for machine Screws around the Perimeter of the Valley Pan. No more Leaks.

  

I drilled and tapped in 8 places around the perimeter also and used Black RTV.. No leaks after 8,000 miles..

valley pan,was most likely over tightened,i presed
 mine strait and reinforced front and rear. drilled and taped a 5/16 thread then tightened using a bridge, like the list clamp. tightened the original boys with new grommet(don't over do it.) 3 years on the engine no leaks