After the initial rebuild of my 292 Y Block, I have upgraded to a 57 intake manifold and Distributor. After experiencing burnt points on the distributor, I had changed it out to an electronic distributor and hotter coil. It always missed and popped. So I went back to a standard point type distributor and coil. Now I can not get the car to run.

Initially I was finding TDC on the compression stroke of #1  cylinder, as I had on many engine in the past. So after reading the shop manual in further detail, and reading past threads on this forum and others I found this not to be correct. The manual says to place engine on TDC after the compression stroke. So after finding TDC compression stroke do I rotate the crank pull one rotation? I did this and the engine is not back firing and popping out the carburetor but wont start, even after advancing the distributor. Any input on this problem would be greatly appreciated.  

I remove #1 plug and hold my finger OVER the plug hole (not in the hole) and tap the starter or rotate the motor by hand with a socket on the crankshaft bolt and when the piston comes up on the compression stroke (air escaping from finger), I align the timing marks with the socket on the crankshaft. Then with the distributor cap off rotate the distributor until the rotor points to number 1 wire on the cap. It should be close enough to start and run to set the timing.

  Vic Correnti

As the #1 piston is coming up and pressure if present at that spark plug hole, it’s the compression stroke.  At the top of that movement is TDC.  When in doubt, pull the valve covers.  At #1 TDC compression, both valves for #1 will have lash while both valves for #6 will be tight.  If you’re on the wrong side of TDC for #1 (#6 is on the compression stroke), then the lash will be present for the #6 cylinder valves and the #1 valves will be tight.  In that scenario, the timing is off by 180°.  For setting the initial timing for dropping a distributor in place, I’ll put the damper at ~20° BTDC on the damper.  That ends up being much closer than having the damper on TDC.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thank you Ted and Vic for your input. I guess I was reading too much into this. I'm going to pull the valve covers and see where I stand. Thanks again.

Phil

Curious which "Electronic" Distributor and Coil did You Purchase and then have trouble with? Switching back to the conventional Distributor still gives You Choices to convert the Points to Electronic Ignition. Pertronix and others..

  

It  is a TSP electronic Distributor you can find on Ebay, along with a MSD master Blaster coil. It was probably ok. I'm just not setting my engine to proper TDC. I'm going to give Ted's tip a try this morning before the days heat sets in.  

It's not a bad idea to check or verify the true TDC while you're at it, using a piston stop tool in the #1 cylinder.

The way you do that, with the tool installed (all 8 spark plugs removed is easiest) roll the engine over by hand, in both the clockwise and counterclockwise direction slowly and carefully till the piston hits the stop, and then mark the damper at both locations.

TDC lies exactly halfway between these two marks, regardless of "0" mark indicated on the damper balancer. It is important to verify this because every timing adjustment or setting is based on TDC. If your rebuild did not include a new balancer this may be part of the problem, the original equipment balancers are always defective by now.

Thanks for your suggestion. I'm going to pick one up, seen them online. I believe the dampner has slipped.  

Well you can make your own, I spent a few minutes trying to drill out an old plug. That &$@!! is hard stuff! Knocking off the ceramic with a hammer went just fine, but declared defeat and just ordered one, Comp Cams 4792 18mm, didn't want to make a career out of it. I suppose welding a heavy nail on the end of a plug would work, or even just the right length screwdriver would too. Had to extend the screw in the stop almost all the way to get it work.

Just checked my 292 yesterday in fact. The Powerbond replacement damper is #1199N. Measured dead on perfect at TDC. I figured it would, but it never hurts to check. Always measure, don't guess, right? Now I don't have to wonder. Made a mark at both stops with blue painter's tape covering the damper, and then folded the tape in half to check against the damper markings.

I'm with you. I got enough problems, so I'll just order one. I'll look into that Powerbond Replacment Dampner.
Thanks, Phil