Thanks.  I have no idea who built this engine or how long it has been in the car.  I see some indications of back yard mechanics going on here.  I hope the next owner appreciates my efforts. 

When replacing the rod bolts and even when you remove the old bolts and reinstall them, it is necessary to resize the connecting rod big end bores.  Reinstalling the rod bolts creates new ‘centers’ thus shifting the caps around and no longer having a perfectly round bore.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I tore down the engine in my 1955 TBird.   The engine block turned out to be an early 60s 292 block bored .040 over.  The crank and rod bearings are standard.  The cylinder walls have no ridge.  The pistons all came out easily.  I will be taking the block to the machine shop this week for hot tanking and cam bearings.  If it needs to be bored again, I plan to go to .060 and buy new pistons.   The cam looks like a stock low performance Ford cam.

The rod bearings all look good with only a small amount of copper showing around the edges of a few bearings.  The only thing I don't like is some of the rod bolt nuts seemed hard to turn.  Also, the number seven rod is label #1.  The rod bushings seem fine.  I'm thinking about having the rods reconditioned.  Is this necessary when you install new rod bolts?  This is a weekend street engine, not a race car.