I bought a 55 TBird with a manual transmission and O/D last summer.  The car is an older restoration.  Somewhere in it's life the motor has been rebuilt.  Last fall I installed a set of 57 "G" heads, rockers with new shafts, Holley 465 with a "D" code intake manifold and 57 distributor.   When I had the heads off, I noticed the pistons where .040 over and there was no noticeable ring wear ridge on the block.  The O/D transmission and the oil pump are leaking and the bottom of the car, clutch linkage and most everything else is coated with dirt and grime.  The engine runs strong with good oil pressure.  The motor smokes a little when you first start it up.  Other than that, no complaints.  I think it may have the stock 55 cam still in it.

I am in the process of pulling the engine and transmission.   I want to clean and paint everything, reseal the tranny and install a new clutch if it needs it.   This is mostly for cosmetic reasons as the car runs and drives the way it is.  My question is this. While I have the engine out, can I install new rings, bearings and timing chain or should I rebuild the engine from scratch?   I don't want to bore the block unless I have to.  Might be a good time to upgrade the cam and lifters as well?   Half way or all way?

Only after you tear the engine completely down will you know if you can get by with a basic re-ring and re-bearing of the existing engine.  If there’s no ridge at the tops of the cylinders and no scoring, then a simple re-hone of the cylinders and a fresh set of rings will likely be all you need there.  The same goes with the bearings; if no obvious problems are noted there, then simply install a new set of bearings.  If changing out the camshaft and lifters, then be sure to machine the center groove in the camshaft ‘deeper’ to prevent potential top end oiling problems later down the road.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted.  I will have the engine on the stand on Thursday.  As the block is already bored .040, I am a little nervous about boring it any larger.  I'll know more about that I'm dealing with when I get it apart.

The block could be bored a lot more but only after having it sonic checked to insure the thickness of the cylinder walls. Due to casting core shift some may be thinner than others and that will limit over bore.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Do you think I can go .060 over without problems?

You said the engine smokes a little on start-up. I understand that is a symptom of worn valve guides. Had the heads been rebuilt when you installed them?

.060 would not be a problem.  I bore 292 blocks .080 over, use .030 312 pistons, and pump 12-13 pounds of boost in my drag engine with no cylinder failures.  Been doing this for years.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The 57 "G" heads were checked by a good machine shop before I installed them. They did not need guides.  The engine rarely smokes.  After a long trip, I have noticed a little smoke drifting away from the car on startup.   There are so many leaks, it could just be oil dripping on the exhaust pipes.  The worst leak was from the front transmission seal.  When I split the tranny from the bellhousing, about a 1/2 cup of mineral oil spilled out.  The crank seal seems fine.  Some oil is also leaking from around the pan, oil pump and valve covers.  I have seen worse.   I am going to pull the engine apart and check the bore taper and bearings this weekend.  I'll know more then.   I definitely want to swap the cam for an Isky E4.  I probably could have done that job in the car 30 years ago.  Right now, I am better off using my engine hoist than my agility.

Hey Hoosier Hurricane, how did you get those big rear tires on your car? and what size are they?

Thanks Cliff