I have a 1963 Ford F100 with a 292 in it.  My family is the original owner of the truck and everything on it is stock.  When I drive the truck it always smells like gas.  I can't even park it in the garage because the odor is so strong.  The truck runs okay as far as I can tell.  I don't know that much about engines but I am mechanically inclined and can follow directions. 
I adjusted the valve lash but there is still a loud ticking noise from the number 1 and number 2 cylinders. 
I am not really sure where to begin but I thought it could be an issue with the timing. 
I have tried to find a video on how to adjust the timing but I haven't found anything with enough detail.  
Can anyone tell me how to adjust the timing or point me to a good resource.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

If you have not already, buy a repair manual for the truck.  Reprints are available and pretty good quality.

I don't think timing or valve lash has to do with the strong gas smell but there are some things to be aware of before adjusting either.  Assuming that the engine has never been rebuilt, the rocker arms are probably worn wear they contact the valves.  This makes it impossible to adjust lash with a feeler gauge.  This article describes a way to adjust lash without a feeler gauge, http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html
The damper has also probably slipped.  This will make it impossible to adjust timing.  The best solution here is to have it rebuilt or replace it with new.  Since the engine does run, I would not recommend adjusting timing until it is determined that the damper is good.  If it's original, the one it rolled off the assembly line with, it is not.  Replace or rebuild it.
Timing is pretty easy.  You need a timing light.  Follow the specific instructions for the light you have but in general, attach the pickup lead to the #1 plug wire and the power leads to the battery,  #1 cylinder is at the front on the generator side.  Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and temporarily plug it so there is no vacuum leak.  Start the engine and use the light to see where the timing is.  The pointer will be on the generator side of the engine, just below the water pump.  The pointer is actually fastened to the engine via the lower water pump bolts.  If adjustment is required, loosen the distributor clamping bolt and turn the distributor until the desired timing is achieved.  Clamp down the distributor and check one more time to ensure that nothing changed while clamping it down.


Lawrenceville, GA

I’d be a little concerned about the gas smell. If it’s only out the exhaust from running rich, that’s one thing. But if it’s raw gas under the hood or near the gas tank, I’d be looking for a leak. Start with any of the rubber hoses. Even without ethanol, old hoses a prone to cracking. There is nothing worse than a gas fire, especially if it’s fed by fuel pump pressure. I just had a failed hose on an OT car. Just a drip at idle, but it was going to be a spray anytime. And it’s an EFI car at over 40 psi. Leave it out of the garage till you’re sure.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Thanks for the reply. The link you provided doesn’t work. Looks like the article has been removed. I was thinking about replacing the carburetor. I am currently running the original 2 barrel carb. Any suggestions for a good replacement?

I fixed the link.  Not sure what I did as it looked correct before.

A 350 cfm 2 barrel, Holley or Autolite / Motorcraft rough equivalent.  It will be best but find the problem before throwing parts at it.  I really don't think that the  carb is causing a smell so bad that it can't even be in the garage, particularly if it does run well. It could be something as simple as the gas cap or the hose between the filler tube and tank, in the cab.  That hose being bad can result in a pretty strong fuel smell in the cab.  Examine the entire fuel system and you will find it.


Lawrenceville, GA

Does it smell all the time or just when the tank is full.  If just when the tank is full, I suggest looking at the sending unit to see if it's seeping around that.  Maybe all you need is a new gasket.  As mentioned before, check all flexible hoses and connections for the gas lines from the tank to the carb.

As far as setting timing, you can use the vacuum method. 

As before, disconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and plug it.  From an engine vacuum source, attach a vacuum gauge and turn the distributor to the highest reading you can get, then back off a few lines. Reconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and test drive it.  If you get pinging back off the timing a little and retest.

Get a shop manual.  It really helps a lot.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Had the same issue on my 64.  It had developed cancer on the back side bottom of the tank.  Bought a new tank from LMC, problem solved.

If you post your location , maybe someone is near enough, and kind enough to get in touch with you and give you a few pointers, and maybe even come by and point you in the right direction.  I would help, but I doubt that I am close enough to help. I live in Alaska.----Jim