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engine wiring

Posted By rebuilder56 6 Years Ago
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rebuilder56
Problem Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Hi Folks;
  Hoping someone could help with just the engine wiring on my rebuilt 292.  I need to get it started and running  in just the frame (no body, inner fenders).  Its been on the dyno and broken in.  I have attached a Bendtsen adapter plate and hi torque starter, but left the flexplate off so I can check system first before cranking to fire up. I will use the original Ford fender mounted Solenoid also as per Bendtsen, but confused how that wires in to everything I have. I've seen so many variations. The distributor is a 1957 or up with Petronix II and correct coil.  I am eliminating the ballast resistor as per Petronix.  The Alternator is a 12si 100 amp one wire Powermaster unit, wired as they describe.  There now is no fusebox, so I plan on temporarily using fusible links and in line spade fuses wherever they should be.  That still needs to be determined.  How does stock keyed   ignition switch wire up to all this? What size wire from Battery to BAT terminal of key switch and should it be fused? I have grounded engine to frame and Batt Neg to frame with 4 ga. wire.   I've done so much research trying to solve this , I'm just confusing myself now.  I'm attaching a simple diagram for correction for anyone that can help an electrically challenged old man.   Just want to hear my motor runnin.
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charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
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In your drawing, there is no power to the ignition system or ignition switch.
The S terminal of the solenoid should go to the starting circuit of the ignition switch.

So the battery needs to supply power to the ignition switch.  The ignition switch then powers the ignition and choke and S terminal of the solenoid.


Lawrenceville, GA
rebuilder56
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

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Thanks Charlie, 
  I realized I forgot the power to BAT terminal wire after posting.  My apologies for rushing. Since this wire will  be about 3 ft long right now, Would 10 guage  with inline 15 amp fuse be safe?  Just to be sure, are you referring to the S terminal of the original Ford solenoid, or the S tang on the new starter/solenoid combo going to  ST post of ign switch?   If referring to the Ford unit, what connects to the spade terminal of new starter for start signal?  Appreciate the help, when I get this right, I'll try to draw a schematic for others with a similar system.
KULTULZ
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Starter Mounted Solenoid Hookup w FORD Remote Solenoid-http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f66cc205-e74c-4e15-a1f0-1909.jpg
Do you just want to hear the engine run until you hang the sheet metal and add the harness?



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charliemccraney
Posted 6 Years Ago
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10ga will be plenty for what you are testing.  A 15A fuse is probably fine, too.  I have 10A for my ignition, which is about all you are operating at the time.  


Lawrenceville, GA
rebuilder56
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Hitting on all eight cylinders

Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)Hitting on all eight cylinders (22 reputation)

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Thanks guys, this all helps.  Rebuilt trans should be ready next week, and I would like to get the whole drivetrain together and functioning before body goes back on.  That will be a while at my pace, so I want to be able to run engine weekly, plus check trans operation.   With KULTULZ diagram I see I'm missing the wire from  "I" terminal of Ford solenoid to starter.  I think this will get me to the point where I can fire up my new multitester and check for correct power,etc.  Electricity has always been my dreaded nemesis, really do appreciate the help.  Hope to work on this, this weekend, and let you know how it goes.


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