Thank you for the offer, I front portion of this pan will be to deep and unfortunately will also hit my axle. Your knowledge and input is very helpful and appreciated. I am looking into the one on ebay though I would need the exterior tube and have a baffle put in.

Charles

Would like to see that baffle install as well. I might need it.

I think you might be confusing the rear of the pan Marc is offering as the front.  The front portion of the HD pan is much shallower at the front than the front sump pan you currently have.  If the HD pan hits, then your current pan must be absolutely destroyed.  The standard truck pan is not much shallower at the front than the HD pan, so if they really are too deep in that area, then you may need a Bird pan, or simply to modify a truck pan.  I have one of each (not for sale) that I can measure and let you know the difference.

I don't have pictures of a baffle install, only pictures of a factory installed baffle.  I may have a baffled pan that I can measure.


Lawrenceville, GA

The truck pans I have are 3" deep at the front end.  The T-Bird pan is 1 1/2".  Years ago I modified a front sump pan to put a 292 in my '33 Ford pickup.  I took a front sump pan, cut the flange off, turned it around and re-welded it back on.  Relocated the pickup tube hole to the other side.  That pan measures 1" deep at the front, but it has the original front sump in the rear now and the capacity is only 4 quarts.  I couldn't afford a T-Bird pan at the time.  Still can't.

Is your truck drastically lowered at the front?  If your axle is "dropped" at the ends to lower the truck, that wouldn't affect the axle to pan clearance.  But if the springs are reworked to get the truck lower, that would affect pan clearance

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I just added some pictures of what I had to do to the truck pan to fit an aftermarket crossmember in my 56 F100.   It's posted in "Need some skoolin in oil pans
on the Y's"

This is the pickup that you want to avoid.  I think it only came with baffled pans.  The positioning is terrible because it is angled up to get over the hump in the floor of the pan.  This makes it real easy for the oil level to drop below the pickup, at which point the pump begins to take in air, and pressure drops.  The amount of oil in the pan only needs to drop to 2 to 3 quarts for this to happen and it is pretty easy for that to happen in performance use.  For strictly low rpm street use it is ok.  For anything else, it's garbage.



This is 2 quarts of water in the pan, angled as if it were installed on the engine and the pickup positioned as it would be when installed.  You can see that there is a very slight gap towards the front.  In a performance situation, the oil would move toward the back of the pan or left or right of the pickup.  The baffle would help keep it submerged pretty well while braking, though, or perhaps for long downhill descents  



This is the better pickup.  It's much closer to the floor, keeping it submerged in more situations and the positioning at the rear does make it more useful for drag racing since the oil will rush back to that area during acceleration.





Lawrenceville, GA

The previous pics, along with this one will help you get an idea how it is constructed and where it is positioned.  Note that the arched section, the section towards the floor and the hinge are not factory.  Where the arch is cut, the baffle is simply straight across.  The bottom has been trimmed about 1/4".  It would have been straight across at the pointy bits.  The hinge is a gate to allow oil back into the sump but prevent it from moving forward, taking the baffle to the next level.





Lawrenceville, GA

I removed the front springs and added a mono spring, I then had the front axle stretched 3". Currently I believe the axle just touches the pan,so I was hoping the truck pan would clear ( not sure). I am going to have to pull the old pan off this weekend and take some new measurements. I am not done discussing this issue though. Is it possible to flip the current pan around and fill and drill the the old and new oil tube holes? ( will the pan holes still line up ) ?

Charles

If you currently have a front sump pan, then a truck pan is what you need.  It will clear, no problem.

The shape of the pan near the oil pump prevents you from being able to simply flip the pan around.  If the front of a truck pan is somehow still not deep enough, it will be easier to modify the floor of a truck pan for clearance, rather than trying to flip a front sump pan around to make it work.


Lawrenceville, GA

I have not driven this yet with the current set up as I noticed it when putting the truck into position after reinstalling the front axle. This is why I am now looking to change the set up.