i had a set of those years ago.i ended up using .040 rings.cant remember the gap but i dont think it was to bad.

On the .0425 rings. I had the same problem a couple of years back when I rebuilt mine. A friend in the Ford parts business got me the pistons from Ford back in 1968. I finaly called Grant Piston rings directly and told their guy in the plant what i needed. He put together  a set from a couple of different applications and shipped them to me. Working fine. Cost was a little higher than an off the shelf set but not much.

You’ll have much better luck in selling parts in a post specific to what you’re selling.  Posting to someone else’s ad will keep potential buyers from seeing it.  Be sure to make it a new post and not add it to a post already in progress.   Also include specific details along with price and location and/or general area.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have a complete engine and trans sitting in a 1956 customeline that runs. not going to magflux to sell. If interested email

Randy, yes I have successfully used blocks repaired this way, if there is only a crack from the bolt hole to the edge of the web. That bolt only carries 1/10 th of the total crankshaft load.  Ted and other professional engine builders will not do this because they have to guarantee their work, so any questionable part won't be used.  I have done this only on my own engines.  I usually drill all the main holes deeper, cracked or not.  Puts the load a little deeper into the block.  I use grade 8 bolts.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Sorry Ted, I was responding to John’s post but mistakely put your name in.

Can those rings still be bought?   I guess I'll have to tear down this block to find out if its cracked.   

This is surely addressed to the other ‘Ted’ on the site as I junk out blocks with problems less than cracked main webs.  If the blocks are cracked in the main webbing area, they are simply put into the scrap pile.  On my end I simply cannot warranty the fix.  Many of those blocks with cracked main webs are also cracked into the oil galley which makes them doubly hard to repair.  I have seen attempts to repair blocks with cracked main webbing and none made it far down the road.
 
John’s suggestion of tapping the main holes deeper and using a longer bolt does allow the stress on the main bolt threads to be spread out deeper within the block instead of right at the journal bore.  This is performed to a block that’s not cracked to prevent a future crack.  As John mentions, the main bolt torque on the 312’s is important.  To date, all the 312’s I’ve seen with cracked main webbing have been previously rebuilt which points to improper or excessive main bolt torque.  I’ve yet to see a factory assembled 312 with a cracked main web.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The Ford rebuilders used 0.0425” oversize quite a bit back in the day.  Hard to say why unless too many blocks simply didn’t clean up at 0.040” but did at 0.0425”.  I’ve pulled down a number of ‘Fred Jones’ rebuilt 292’s that had 0.0425” oversize pistons in them.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Paul,  its funny that an ad for an engine has turned into a discussion!  LOL     I actually thought I was buying a 292.   I was planning to have it bored.   I never looked at any numbers on it, and the bell and flywheel were still on it.   So I didn't see 312 till I took the flywheel off.    The .0425 is the number on the rebuilders tag,  and is also stamped in the top of the pistons.