Diesel oil in the gasoline engines became even more unsuitable at the beginning of 2017.  The latest ‘CK-4’ diesel oils have a reduced zddp content; this change took place at the beginning of 2017.  Bearing wear with the ‘CJ-4’ oils in gasoline engines was already accelerated without going the extra step in reducing the zddp content.  And to compound the problem with the ‘CK-4’ oils, Ford doesn’t even recommend using them in the Ford diesel engines due to accelerated wear that showed up in testing in those engines.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) assembly lube part number is 88862587.  It now comes in a 16oz bottle.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I think you will be ok with VR1 at regular intervals.  The way I interpret VR1, according to the product description, is that it is a street oil that perhaps draws from racing oil tech, which is true of many things.  There is some trickle down from the highest levels of racing to production cars. I think racing is in the name for marketing, for that guy who likes to say hes uses racing stuff in his street car.  Here, again, this is something that is best to ask Valvoline, if you want the most accurate info.  Valvoline will know their products better than anyone else.


Lawrenceville, GA

In a study commissioned by a leading TBird expert, in the 1980's Pennzoil 10-40 has a zinc rating of 547, phosphorus 716.  I don't know if this was the norm back then, but I assume it was..  I also assume that 50's. 60's and 70's oils had less.  With the Valvoline rating at 830, I would assume that this would be more than sufficient in a stock rebuild  than what the YBlocks used back in the day.  In a modified engine I would assume that a higher rating would be necessary.

Another question - what would be the ZPPD (zinc and phosporus combined) rating with the Valvoline 830 and 7XX combination?


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I'm going to break mine in with Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10/30 with an added 16 oz. of Lucas TB ZiINC-PLUS break-in additive.

I realize this Post is a Year old but it does relate to the Current Post regarding Oil and Additives. The Rotella-T4 15w40 is API categorized as CJ-4/ SM being for Diesel (C) and Gas (S) Engines. However it is not to be used in Vehicles with Catalytic Converters. The Zinc Content is 1200 PPM and Phosphorus 800 PPM. I have been using Rotella-T 15w40 for last 10 Years as it was recommended on this Site when I purchased my first 56 Y-Block. Is there any Reason I should not continue to use it as it is Rated for use in Gas Engines also and the Zinc Content is already at what the Additives others are adding to their Oil ? 

  

I always read oil questions and statements. Having grown up with Y's that my father had and were serviced as directed but the longevity was curtailed due to never being really warmed up and the use of non-detergent oils. My 56 was bought with a rebuilt engine of which I do not know of the internal modifications if any for oiling. 
I started with 10-30 oil's for the first 5 years and eventho I did not have any problems and oiling seems to be enough to the rocker arm system I have chosen to go with a lighter weight oil. Fords recommendation in 56 was straight 20 weight and since that's a little harder to find I've moved to 5-20 as I too don't really put enough miles on when I drive to gatherings locally. I do add 1/2 of the Lucas product TB Zinc-Plus (for peace of mind I guess). There is always evidence of oil on the top end when I look under the valve covers which I do ever 6 months.
My son and I in our racing engines have a lot more valve spring pressure (both using flat tappet cams) and have never had a problem, Our stock Y-Blocks have a lot lower spring pressure and as long as we change oil as recommended or at least once a year for cars not driven much I think we should have nothing to worry about.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.