Break in Oil

Break in Oil

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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago

I know I got a lot of questions, but it's been a while since I've been through putting a new engine into service.
Cam is ISKY, Grind S-974 I got from John Mummert

Oddly enough, ISKY does not provide any info on either procedure or lube for break in in the cam literature

The next question is about break in oil (I think I got the procedure). I was thinking about a good grade of 10-40 or 20-50, probably Castrol GTX . The last engine I had to break in was the 312 in my 54 and I used one or the other and the GM break in additive (still available?). Any other recommendations

Thanks for any help

By Ted - 6 Years Ago

Oil is always a touchy subject. I’ve always said that if you want to alienate someone, then talk politics, religion, or brands of oil. For most flat tappet street engines, I use conventional grade Valvoline 10W-40 which comes in the white jug. On occasion I’ll throw in a 4oz. bottle of ZDDPlus or GM Zinc additive for good measure just for the first load of oil as that’s good for all wear items, not just the cam and lifters. If there’s going to be a cam/tappet failure at the very start, it’s not going to be the brand of oil and will instead be something to do with the installation or the parts being used.

Some things to always consider when breaking in a new flat tappet camshaft is to never use an oil with less than 30W in its classification (ie. 5W-20) or synthetic oil. There needs to be enough shear properties in the oil to allow the tappet to grab and turn on the lobe. Reduced viscosity and synthetic oils do have reduced shear properties by design and work well for the applications intended but not in our older flat tappet engines. Be cautious in the prolonged use of zinc additives to oil that already has sufficient zinc/phosphorus in it as that can contribute to zinc overloading. That in turn will cause the cam flanks to wear excessively as time goes on.

By Dobie - 6 Years Ago

Ted, do you happen to know the zinc/phosphorus content of the Valvoline you use? Is it formulated for flat tappet engines specifically or does it cover OHC as well? I currently use one of the "high mileage" 10W40 semi synthetics that is supposed to be more or less universal but I still toss and turn over it at night sometimes.

By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago

The only Vavloline which has near the recommended amount, about 1100-1200ppm is the VR1 oils and I think a couple of the motorcycle oils. You can look at the product information sheet for the content of zinc and phosphorous for the particular Valvoline oil you use at Valvoline's website.

Well, it looks like they do not state that for the Maxlife oil (red bottle). Might be a better question to pose to Valvoline directly. It's advertised for engines with more than 75000 miles, which at this point would be well into the 2000s, meaning that it has to be formulated to play nice with newer stuff.
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/bebcbfb0-c37e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/dcefb479-09bd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago

What is the name of the GM zinc additive (or part number)

By Dobie - 6 Years Ago

charliemccraney (1/16/2018)

The "additional anti-wear additives" statement is what attracted me to it but you may very well be right, it may still be unsuitable to flat tappets over the long term. The one problem I have with VR-1 is the lack of a detergent package which means changing it more often than a "street" oil that has detergents. Small price to pay I guess.

By Tedster - 6 Years Ago

Looks like ZDDPlus is $13 delivered @ 4 fl. oz bottle, enough to treat 4-5 quarts of oil. $9 a bottle if purchasing 5 at a time. This is a Zinc/phosphorous supplement.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191678207150

Ted, are you still of the opinion that Diesel rated oils like Rotella 15/40 or Delvac are unsuitable?

By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago

Greetings to all: I'll try to post the link to Valvoline's product data information. ZDDP is listed for their motor oil and the VR1 racing oil - for what it's worth. https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/pi-sheets

By Dobie - 6 Years Ago

Hmmm, I'm not seeing any reference to specific additives in Maxlfe, only approvals and licences and additional recommended applications. I think I'll just go back to VR-1.

By Ted - 6 Years Ago

Dobie (1/16/2018)

The zinc/phosphorus (zddp) content for the current run of conventional grade of Valvoline is listed as 830/760. That’s about 66% or 2/3 of the old “SJ” specification. What this means is the available zddp simply will not last as long using the old oil change intervals. For most flat tappet camshafts using the current run of oils with these reduced zddp levels, I typically recommend changing the oil once a year or 2000 miles, which-ever comes first. This will insure that the zinc/phosphorus is not exhausted before performing the oil change.

By Ted - 6 Years Ago

Tedster (1/17/2018)

.....Ted, are you still of the opinion that Diesel rated oils like Rotella 15/40 or Delvac are unsuitable?

Diesel oil in the gasoline engines became even more unsuitable at the beginning of 2017. The latest ‘CK-4’ diesel oils have a reduced zddp content; this change took place at the beginning of 2017. Bearing wear with the ‘CJ-4’ oils in gasoline engines was already accelerated without going the extra step in reducing the zddp content. And to compound the problem with the ‘CK-4’ oils, Ford doesn’t even recommend using them in the Ford diesel engines due to accelerated wear that showed up in testing in those engines.

By Ted - 6 Years Ago

paul2748 (1/17/2018)

What is the name of the GM zinc additive (or part number)?

The GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) assembly lube part number is 88862587. It now comes in a 16oz bottle.

By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago

I think you will be ok with VR1 at regular intervals. The way I interpret VR1, according to the product description, is that it is a street oil that perhaps draws from racing oil tech, which is true of many things. There is some trickle down from the highest levels of racing to production cars. I think racing is in the name for marketing, for that guy who likes to say hes uses racing stuff in his street car. Here, again, this is something that is best to ask Valvoline, if you want the most accurate info. Valvoline will know their products better than anyone else.

By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago

In a study commissioned by a leading TBird expert, in the 1980's Pennzoil 10-40 has a zinc rating of 547, phosphorus 716. I don't know if this was the norm back then, but I assume it was.. I also assume that 50's. 60's and 70's oils had less. With the Valvoline rating at 830, I would assume that this would be more than sufficient in a stock rebuild than what the YBlocks used back in the day. In a modified engine I would assume that a higher rating would be necessary.

Another question - what would be the ZPPD (zinc and phosporus combined) rating with the Valvoline 830 and 7XX combination?

By jecklhyde - 6 Years Ago

I'm going to break mine in with Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10/30 with an added 16 oz. of Lucas TB ZiINC-PLUS break-in additive.

By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago

Ted (1/17/2018)

Tedster (1/17/2018)

.....Ted, are you still of the opinion that Diesel rated oils like Rotella 15/40 or Delvac are unsuitable?

I realize this Post is a Year old but it does relate to the Current Post regarding Oil and Additives. The Rotella-T4 15w40 is API categorized as CJ-4/ SM being for Diesel (C) and Gas (S) Engines. However it is not to be used in Vehicles with Catalytic Converters. The Zinc Content is 1200 PPM and Phosphorus 800 PPM. I have been using Rotella-T 15w40 for last 10 Years as it was recommended on this Site when I purchased my first 56 Y-Block. Is there any Reason I should not continue to use it as it is Rated for use in Gas Engines also and the Zinc Content is already at what the Additives others are adding to their Oil ?

By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago

I always read oil questions and statements. Having grown up with Y's that my father had and were serviced as directed but the longevity was curtailed due to never being really warmed up and the use of non-detergent oils. My 56 was bought with a rebuilt engine of which I do not know of the internal modifications if any for oiling.
I started with 10-30 oil's for the first 5 years and eventho I did not have any problems and oiling seems to be enough to the rocker arm system I have chosen to go with a lighter weight oil. Fords recommendation in 56 was straight 20 weight and since that's a little harder to find I've moved to 5-20 as I too don't really put enough miles on when I drive to gatherings locally. I do add 1/2 of the Lucas product TB Zinc-Plus (for peace of mind I guess). There is always evidence of oil on the top end when I look under the valve covers which I do ever 6 months.
My son and I in our racing engines have a lot more valve spring pressure (both using flat tappet cams) and have never had a problem, Our stock Y-Blocks have a lot lower spring pressure and as long as we change oil as recommended or at least once a year for cars not driven much I think we should have nothing to worry about.