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Rocker assembly oil deflector plates,needed or not?

Posted By Brock3031 7 Years Ago
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Brock3031
Question Posted 7 Years Ago
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I have a 292 which I bought as a complete and assembled engine, I also got  a box of extra parts in the deal, and the box included a set of the stamped oil deflector plates,but none were on the heads. The heads are ECL's
Not knowing the condition of the engine I tore it down had it machined and checked for cracks,rebuilt it with quality parts, including the heads and rocker assemblies.
I have the "Build and modify your Y Block"  book and it shows the assembled heads without the deflector plates. Were these plates only used on earlier engines or were they installed on later ones to help with the well known oiling problems. Should I use the plates or not?  Any advice is appreciated, as I have a lot of time and money invested in my Y block and want to get it right the first time.           
DryLakesRacer
Posted 7 Years Ago
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They are not on my 56 292 and it seems to be fine. I've own the car for 6 years and the engine was new/rebuilt when I bought the car.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
NoShortcuts
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Brock3031. FoMoCo used the rocker arm deflector plates in production years '55 and '56.  I can't speak to 1954.  The intention was to deflect some oil from the valve stems and valve guides.  Along with the camshaft counterweight and the oil drip trough used with the timing set, some of us believe that the bean counters decided that they were not necessary for production years '57 - '64.

Personally, I prefer to use the oil drip trays along with the original umbrella style valve stem seals along with installing the oil drip trough that helps to assure adequate oiling of the timing gears and chain on the later blocks.

There were an awful lot of y-blocks built between 1957 and 1964 that are still running today without the oil drip trays or the oil drip troughs on the timing set.  Don't lose any sleep about not having these items.

Hope this helps!   Smile 


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stuey
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I don't know how critical this is for a street motor but they have an effect on rocker arm geometry.
See Mr Eatons web site   http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2007/12/10/rocker-arm-geometry/.
stuey 
Brock3031
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Thanks for the quick replies guys. After reading the Eaton article I will be taking a closer look at the contact point of the rocker arm to the valve stem,during full lift and no lift.
Brock   
2721955meteor
Posted 7 Years Ago
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mr eaton has some excellent tips,i have chosen blocking the drain tubes with a home made bolt and threading the 2 stands,by pressuring the rockers they all now get oil also no drip trays as with new thicker head gaskets help to get proper contact . some say the blocking of drain tubes  limits lube to chain and dist drive. as drain holes send excess oil to front and rear of valley,and pressure to rockers i see no issues.  my 57 ranchero has these changes  for 5years and burns no oil and lots of oil to rockers.as well as dist gear and chain . if 1 goes this direction you need good valve guides,and umbrella style seals work fine. if guides worn whole new game.
Florida_Phil
Posted 7 Years Ago
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My 55 T-Bird had the oil deflector plates under the rocker stands. When I swapped out my '55 heads for rebuilt '57 G heads with '57 rockers, I debated whether to use them or not.  The '55 push rods are a different length than the '57 push rods.  I think part of this is to compensate for the thickness of the deflector plates.   I tested all the parts and tried different combinations.  I used Fel Pro blue head gaskets and don't have any leaks.  My '57 heads came off a 48,000 mile 272 station wagon and were in great condition.  We cleaned them up, did a valve job, installed new springs and seals and bolted them on.

The rocker arm geometry with the '57 heads was the best without the oil deflector plates using the stock '57 push rods. I have worked on quite a few Y Block engines.  Until my '55 Bird I had never worked on a pre 56 Y block and had never seen the deflector plates.  I see no reason for using them unless they are required to keep your valve train geometry right.  I also debated blocking the oil tubes.   Both camps have good arguments.  I decided to squeeze the ends down a bit instead of blocking them altogether.  I watched the rockers with my car running and I have plenty of oil at the rockers.


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