Charlie mentions some 1 wire drawbacks above. I’ve experienced all of those one time or another. Having to put some rev’s on the motor to start charging isn’t a big deal, but delivering low voltage to the battery is. I prefer to hook up the “Gen”light, or whatever is required to start the charging, and the voltage sensing wire from the alternator to the battery. I also like to see full charging voltage, typically 14.4 or so, on the battery at fast idle. Check the slow idle voltage, and full load voltage also. Full load isn’t such a big deal as running the heater on high and the high beams on isn’t something we do much on our older car. But it’s nice to know you’re close to 12 volts even if it drops off a bit.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Good morning gents, something I should have done when ordering and will do today is just ask John if he has a recommendation. I would like to have it here when his bracket arrives. Thanks for all the responses once again.

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

I didn't see any mention of reversing the generator wire thru the generator gauge loop for it to work with the conversion.

I don't have a part number but I have been using a Powermaster 100 amp 1-wire since I installed that bracket.  I don't think it was over $100 but it was probably 7 years ago.  You probably do not need 100 amps.  I have that because I do plan to add more electrical stuff.

Some things to be aware of with any 1-wire is that the post for connecting the wire may be very close to the dipstick tube, as the alternator is supplied.  That's not a problem because you can clock the alternator to move the post to one of 4 positions.  If you don't know how to do that, google clocking an alternator.  For a quick rundown, you remove the 4 case screws, separate the halves just enough that you can rotate the back half to the position you want and reinstall the screws.  Sometimes it's not quite that easy, so google before you start.

Another thing is that the pulley will probably be too large.  You will need the alternator to be turning at a bare minimum of 1800rpm at idle.  For a stock Y, that requires a pulley of about 2.200" diameter or smaller.  For a modified Y with a stock damper and about 800rpm idle, about 2.940" diameter will provide the same alternator speed.  If it is a modified Y and you plan to race, then some compromise may have to be made to ensure an adequate idle rpm while keeping the upper limit below 18000rpm.  For instance, the 2.200" pulley will be fine for either engine at idle but say the modified one is shifted at 6500rpm, that puts the alternator at about 19550rpm.

There are also potential drawbacks to a 1-wire, like remote voltage sensing and having to rev the engine when the engine is started to get the alternator started.  Google that as well.
I have not experienced any of those drawbacks. It's possible that it is outdated info and no longer relevant.  It could be that my electrical system does not currently require enough  to be an issue.  It could be something else but for whatever reason, I do not experience it.  For perspective, I have an electric fuel pump and much hotter ignition than stock on top of the stock stuff and with lights, wipers, heater all going at once, there has never been a problem.


Lawrenceville, GA

Personally, I wouldn't go with a one wire because you can't get them at your local parts store.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Done, one is on the way. It will fit right in with the cast manifold and valve covers! That was an excellent suggestion. Now if I can only wade through the 50 or so different "Delco one wire" alternators listed on the web, I'll be doing well....they range from $40-$240.....any suggestions? (Please don't say the $240 one...) :0)

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

It is a good bracket.  I'm using one of the first ones he produced.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks Charlie, I just took another look at Johns bracket and I will give him a call. It does look nice and as you said, "guaranteed fit".

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Google alternator dimensions and look at the picture results for dimensions of many common alternators to see if one might work.

If modern alternators don't seem like they will work easily, you might do something like this:




Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie, yes sir, came with an altornator. Externally regulated. That's why I started the process of going through the car and converting it. It craped out on me and through what research I was able to find, it was better to put the money into the conversion since I had planned on doing this summer anyway. At least this way I'll be driving it this summer instead of working on it. ......hopefully.....

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca