I didn't realize pushrods were so expensive now.

I got a set of custom Smith Brothers pushrods a couple years ago that might have been $120, with shipping and they make a much better pushrod, in my opinion.
The good thing about custom ordering is that you can measure the adjuster screw ball and original pushrod ball (or known to fit correctly replacement) and specify the pushrods for that.  Then they fit, no matter what has been done to the engine - but you still need to check.

Smith Brothers are not strangers to Y-Blocks so it is possible they know the stock lengths.  If not, maybe you can send one for reference.  What I did to measure, since I don't have a 12" caliper, is use a combination square set at about 5 1/2" and measured that with a 6" caliper for the exact dimension.  I then put an 8mm (.315") ball bearing in the cup of the pushrod, set those on the combination square and measured the length that the pushrod extends beyond the square.  So the effective length is the length beyond + about 5.500" - .315".  It's a tricky setup but with some practice, it is reasonably repeatable and much cheaper than a 12" caliper.


Lawrenceville, GA

I get sticker shock with almost anything I buy these days. An expensive lesson learned, I won't buy off the self pushrods if I ever need them again. I need to do a better job of labeling what I have. I will trash the pushrods and take the loss rather then find myself broken down miles from home. The Yblock is my daily driver and sees a lot of long distance trips. Long distance for me is usually about 300 miles round trip to visit the gran kids. I've done a few further then that with the last engine and plan on doing many more with this engine.

I finally got the camera to work LOL.
Top is the one that broke
Middle is the OEM set I found in the unmarked box
Bottom set is unknown to me, I only remember taking them out of a Y years ago. Maybe some one will recognize them..

This afternoon I colored the cup with a Sharpie and spun an adjuster in it. You can clearly see that the ball only hits on the top edge of the cup and doesn't come close to the bottom. Elgin claims their prints say the cup is .370 but I can tell you the parts aren't..

What's interesting to me is that it appears that the PR-71S have the correct size cup, according to my not so scientific tests. They were manufactured this year as well. The only difference between the 71S and 73S pushrod (one would think) is supposed to be the length.

Good luck Ted, I hope yours are ok and work for you.

Yep, we're gonna find out. Is it standard for aftermarket suppliers to include no warranty on their product?

Elgin won't deal with the warranty directly with me, they want you to go back through the seller..

Hm, well that makes a certain amount of sense. I guess. Bought them through eBay, so that might work in my favor if there's an issue.

I don't think it is common for there to be no warranty.  However, the warranty can be quite limited because of the nature of the items.  There are so many ways that items like this can break or wear which have nothing to do with the craftsmanship of the item, like user error during installation, a defect in another item or incorrect installation of another item, etc.
In order to be justified in your warranty claim, you would need to show that there is a defect or problem with the craftsmanship, ideally before the item is ever installed so they cannot claim it is user error.


Lawrenceville, GA