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Head Swap Questions?

Posted By Florida_Phil 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I think you are right.  After installing the '55 push rods things still didn't seem quite right, so I removed the baffles, put the '57 push rods back in and readjusted the valves.  The top end is now all 1957 from the same motor.   The motor runs fine and think this saga is over for now.  Swapping parts from different years is always troublesome.  Thanks for the input.


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charliemccraney
Posted 8 Years Ago
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It's a good guess.  Long pushrods were used again in '60-'64, without baffles, so there may be something else going on.  The difference in pushrod length is about 3/16", which seems like far more than would be required for only a baffle that is maybe 1/32"-3/64" thick.  I've never compared heads in that area to see why.  My guess is more to do with a different shaft mounting pad height, although the baffles should definitely come into play on the earlier heads.



Lawrenceville, GA
Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I pulled the rockers back off and checked the push rods.  The '55 push rods are a lot longer.  I swapped out the '57 push rods with the '55 push rods and readjusted the valves.   The geometry came back to normal with the rocker adjusting screws in the middle.  My guess is the longer rods push rods are there to make up for oil baffle plate thickness.  Another day another lesson learned.


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Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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My valve adjustment screws are about 3-4 full turns from being bottomed out.  I have plenty of adjustment left, just not in the middle of the screw.  I'm thinking about removing the oil baffle plates to see if I can get it somewhere back to normal.  Like I said before, I have never run them before.

One of my books says the '55 push rods are longer than the '57.  I'm not sure about that.  I'll pull one and check.  If this is true I could swap the '55 push rods back in to get the adjusters to center.

The stock '55 cam seems to be OK for now.  The motor has lots of torque and revs to 5,000 with no problem.  This is a street car and it won't see any revs over that.  One day I may swap out the cam, but for now I'm satisfied with the performance.  That probably won't last long....


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DryLakesRacer
Posted 8 Years Ago
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If you would like better brakes consider a vacuum assist booster like one that would be added at the dealer. I see from your photo that one is not there now on your left inner fender. It's the next thing I'm doing to my 56 Victoria.
Also I've added lash caps to my valves many times but on the stock Y, not sure if the valve is above the keeper enough but it will allow to get your valve geometry back closer. Valve/rocker geometry is very important for valve tip, rocker arm tip life, and getting full lift from your rocker arm ratio. Nice 55 Thunderbird..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I started with an unmolested car, so I would prefer to keep everything as stock as possible.  I have kept all the original parts just in case someone wants to return it to stock.  So far I replaced all the shoes, the two back brake cylinders and all hoses.  I just ordered the front cylinders and a new master cylinder.  I'll install them and see if there is any improvement.  It's hard to tell if the brakes are really that bad or if I'm just used to modern brakes.  The car stops, but not with authority.   It's not dangerous, but definitely not what you want in today's traffic.  If I have to, I'll switch to disks.


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oldcarmark
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (10/10/2017)
Went for my first drive with the new '57 top end.  The car now runs like the Y Blocks I remembered.  You can feel that first gear torque and the engine pulls like it should.  I'm pretty sure this little TBird would have given a few 283s a run back in the day.  I'm starting to worry a little about the brakes.  Those drums just aren't cutting it.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1420f1c5-7f13-4478-8d3c-625f.jpg

Nice to see a Picture of your Ride. Looks great. Power Disc Brakes are the way to go. You can expect some negative Comments from some Members on this Site in regards to upgrading your Brakes. I like to Stop NOW which is why I put Discs on mine.

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MoonShadow
Posted 8 Years Ago
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And this is how it begins. Little better horsepower, little more pull in first, little more looking for scrubs to embarrass, little more brakes (yeah, discs that's the ticket). Your dormant Y-Block genes are coming awake! Get ready for a great ride!


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
2721955meteor
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (10/8/2017)
I am in the process of swapping the heads on my 1955 TBird.  The engine is the stock '55 292 .040 over and it runs well.   I have a rebuilt set of 1957 G Heads, '57 high ratio rockers with the longer push rods and a 1957 "D' code iron intake with a new Holley 4 barrel. I also have the a set of '57 exhaust manifolds off a passenger car.

When I removed the '55 small port heads, they had metal oil baffles under the rocker stands.  I worked on a number of Y blocks back in the day and have never seen them before.   I assume I should not use them on the '57 heads and rockers?  There seems to be a number of thoughts on this. I plan to close the end of the oil drip tubes to pressurize the rockers. 

I am using Fel Pro blue head gaskets on the '57 heads.  What torque readings should I use?  Should I re-torque the heads later?

I looked at the G heads and the ports are much wider.  The valves are also bigger.  It will be interesting to see what difference these heads make.

To be honest, I do not see much difference in the '55 TBird Exhaust manifolds and the '57 passenger car manifolds.   I'm not sure they will fit my TBird and from the looks of them I don't think there is that much performance to be gained.  Thanks for you input.
gaskets
 have used felpro gaskets recently with no issues, i spray high tack sealer on both sides,clip the pushrod side to copy best gaskets, use grad 8 cat head bolts. also remove tin flow spacers frome rocker stands a way to compensate for thicker head gaskets.tho my exp is limited to 3engines this year,so not the same history as ted by any means

Florida_Phil
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Went for my first drive with the new '57 top end.  The car now runs like the Y Blocks I remembered.  You can feel that first gear torque and the engine pulls like it should.  I'm pretty sure this little TBird would have given a few 283s a run back in the day.  I'm starting to worry a little about the brakes.  Those drums just aren't cutting it.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1420f1c5-7f13-4478-8d3c-625f.jpg


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