Last month, I posted issues with a low brake pedal after installing new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, star wheel adjusters and hardware. The only thing I did not replace was the backing plates and push pins on the wheel cylinders. I found 2 leaks: one where the line tees off to front and rear brakes and the other at the brake light switch. I tightened both - no leaks but still low brake pedal. I did hear a slight drag on the right front wheel.  I attempted to make an adjustment but could not turn the star adjuster. I did notice that when I pressed down on the star wheel adjuster with a screwdriver the wheel would spin freely and when I remove the pressure on the star adjuster, the wheel would barely turn. Yesterday I raised the front end to replace an oil pressure switch and decided to look at the right front brake while I had the car up. I removed the drum and noticed that the lower spring was hitting the star wheel and the wheel was at its minimum adjustment - all the way in. When I tried to reinstall the drum it would not go on. I had another new star wheel adjuster that was smaller and shorter then the one I had on. I installed the smaller one and installed the drum and wheel. The wheel turns when I turn it but stops as soon as I stop. The brake pedal is better. There is no other adjustment I can make to correct this issue. 
Can I either install shorter wheel cylinder push pins or grind down the ones I have to make the brakes adjustable? Can I shorten the star wheel adjuster by grinding down the non-threaded piston and collar? I think this will make the brakes adjustable and hopefully correct my brake pedal issues.

Sounds like a major brake adjustment is needed. The shop manual should cover how to check and adjust it.

  Vic Correnti

Hi. Is it possible that you have two separate issues? Brake drum inside diameter is smaller than brake shoes outer diameter? What happens if the old drums are put on? Why would this cause a low brake pedal?
What was the condition BEFORE the new parts and why did you put them on? Where did you get the parts and where were they made? More info please.

We used to have to ark shoes to drums to get a good peddle but I don't think you will find anyone with that machine, maybe old brake shop
 
you may have to put some miles on them

The bolt holding the brake rod to the pedal is an eccentric. Turning it will raise and lower the pedal position.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

new 11 inch Brake drums front and rear came from Larry's Thunderbirds for a 1956 Ford full size car. New 2-1/2" x 11" front riveted brake shoes and 1-3/4" x 11" rear by Centric for 1956 Ford full size car. New brake hardware and star wheel adjusters are from Tee-bird Products. Dorman wheel cylinders for 1956 Ford Fairlane.
These were installed because the brakes when I bought the car were horrible - car would come to a rolling stop. I ordered the shoes and hardware for the repair shop to install to improve braking.
They called me and said that the old drums were worn past any turning or adjustment and recommended new drums and wheel cylinders which I provided. They installed all new parts and the brakes work but they could not improve the low brake pedal condition. While driving I could hear the right drum dragging. I removed the tire and tried to turn the drum and it would not turn very well.
I attempted to reinstall the drum and could not get it on. The star wheel adjuster was all the way in. I replaced the star wheel adjuster with a similar but smaller/shorter on and reinstalled the drum.
The wheel will turn but when I stopped turning the wheel it stopped. I drove the car and the brakes are binding somewhat. When I shift to drive or reverse the car does not budge. Since changing the one star wheel adjuster, the brake pedal response and braking is much better. I plan to change the other 3 star wheel adjusters and possibly the wheel cylinder push pins to a shorter version to get the wheels to spin freely and be able to adjust the brakes properly

That sounds fine, but I've got to wonder if you got the right parts, and if the guys doing the brakes knew how to work on drums. When it's apart, check the shoe's radius to the drum's, and grab the manual and verify that the springs, pins, adjusters, etc. are installed right. None of my guys would have asked for parts, they would have known what to order locally (except maybe the drums), and they wouldn't have delivered a car with a low pedal and a dragging wheel.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Did you install new hydraulic hoses on your brake system? Old hoses have been known to deteriorate internally and hold pressure in the wheel cylinder.