I've got one that looks like that, not sure it's the same one. I hook them up to a garden hose (I know the pressure is probably higher). It shut off ok, but it leaked. I've had so many bad types of heater valves I check them all under pressure. I'm not possessed enough to use the hot water tank side, but that's next.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Have a look at Ebay Item # 390569672414. That will screw into Manifold replacing the Elbow on the Intake Manifold.You can manually shut off Heater hot Water.

  

I never did figure out how the vacuum controls worked so I added a cable operated inline valve like mentioned above. The attached pix is on my 67 F-250



AKA   Bob-93021

The vacuum switch located in the heater duct pulls the heat open. It is also directly controlled by a cable. When pushed to cold the cable holds the valve open. When moved to heat the cable allows the vacuum to pull the valve open. I found a modern type (70's Ford pickup) that worked in the same way. Mounted it under the hood and never went back.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I've had more than one vacumn control valve fail open or possibly open. I've also had a couple of those cable operated replacement that wouldn't hold pressure at higher rpm. I finally did something like mark suggested and bought a modern cable operated valve. It's marked for flow, and when it's closed from a cold start the hoses stay cold at the heater. Came from NAPA as I recall.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Heater hoses are usually hooked up to the core with the hose from the valve going to the lower connection on the core. This prevents any sludge build up in the core.

If you unhook the vacuum line and plug it there should not be any water flow. through the valve, mine has always been hooked up top hose to valve and bottom to water pump. I think the biggest  problem is you outside temperature

One of those Harbor Freight laser aimed temperature guns would be helpful. I bought one a while back and it's been very useful. A "must have" for any toolbox. I paid $4 for mine with an online coupon !



"FREE SAMPLE"

Put a manual Shut-Off(looks like a Tap with Hose Tubes) in the Heater Hose or even screwed into Manifold where one of the Hose fittings is now. Problem solved.

  

Its been over 100 degrees lately and inside a 1954 Sun Valley on a sunny day it can get mighty warm.  The left vent is open and on my last cruise I was feeling below the dash for cooler air and realized that there was HOT air coming through the heater, even though it was supposedly off.  The right hand air/heater control cable is broken but the other cables and controls are operating correctly.  I have manually closed the right hand air intake so there is no air coming into the heater nor into the cabin.  The vacuum operated water control valve on the engine is new as well as the vacuum line to the heat control switch.  The heater hose from the water control valve goes to the top tube of the heater at the firewall.  The heater hose from the water pump goes to the bottom tube.

Question 1:  Are these hoses at the heater reversed?  Logic suggests that water should flow from the water pump to the top of the heater core and the return flow should go out the bottom and back to the control valve.  But if that were the case, hot water would always be in the heater.  So, Captain Obvious would say that the water flow is from the intake back to the water pump which apparently would be an inlet rather than a discharge.  Maybe I solved this myself which brings me to question 2.

Question 2:  How do I check the heat control switch?  Mechanically it functions with the control cable which is supposed to route vacuum to the water control valve.  What should the vacuum be at the control switch and at the control valve?  And, how can I determine that the switch is controlling vacuum, how can I tell if the water control valve is working, and how can I tell if water is not flowing to the heater when the heater control levers are in the OFF position?  Darn, that even confused me ! !  Any help?

Question 3:  I mentioned earlier that my heat/vent cable (right side) is broken.  Does anyone have one they would part with?    FDC 700 1890 A    approx. 79 3/16 long - 1954 only