I just finished swapping out the distributor, intake and carb on my 1955 292 to a 57 intake, Holley carb and 57 distributor.   The engine sounds much stronger.  My timing mark is the older type with a pointer and one small notch on the pulley.  Is this mark TDC?  I don't see any other degree marks anywhere.    I used my timing light to set the timing to be what I believe is about 5-6 degrees advanced.   The engine seems to idle too fast and the idle screw won't lower it.    Where should the initial timing be on this engine?

Lets open a can of worms ..  It should be TDC  [but doesn't mean it truly is]  5-6 is normal initial vacuum port blocked. but they like more like 12. To do this you need to modify the dizzy . You have a leak somewhere or your carb is not set correctly , too much transition slot on secondaries? What CFM / type is it?
This is where using a vacuum gauge becomes your friend.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Talkwrench has (unfortunately) opened the right can. Which Holley carb is a key. There's ways to find TDC without taking the motor apart, but you really don't need that. Next question is are you using a vacumn advance and is it hooked up to manifold or ported vacumn? If it's manifold, try moving it to the ported port on the Holley. That might make the idle screw slow it down enough. The bright side is the motor sounds stronger, how does it drive? This is probably a tuning issue.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

The carb is a brand new Holley 465 CFM from Summit.  The distributor is a rebuild unit from Cardone.  The intake is a stock 1957 Ford "D" code.  The intake doesn't leak water and it seemed to go on with no issues.   I will check the vacuum with a gauge today.  I am guessing at the timing as I have no timing marks to go on.  I also don't know if the mark on the pulley is accurate.    I suppose I could buy a timing light with a degree setting, dial in 38 degrees and set it that way.   What I'm most concerned about is a vacuum leak as I can't get the idle screw to lower the RPM much under 800.  I messed with the automatic choke.  I may have created a problem there?  

Need just a bit more information on your damper.  Is this a Thunderbird or a car?  If a car, is the 1/2" thick damper ring behind the belt pulley or is the belt pulley on top of the damper rubber?  If it's a Thunderbird damper, the notch would be TDC but there should also be lines and numbers on the pulley itself.  The marks on the Thunderbird damper are located just behind the belt pulley groove and not on the thicker damper ring located behind the belts.  If the damper is on a car and the damper ring is behind the belt pulley, then the marks and numbers will be on the damper ring.  If the belt pulley is on top of the rubber, then only the TDC will be indicated on belt pulley (just behind the belt groove) and the timing tab itself will be wider with a spread of numbers to use for timing.  If you're dealing with a 1954 car, then the damper is a solid hub design with no rubber but the damper will still be marked with a spread of values in which to time the engine.  In most cases, the timing marks on the dampers are faint and any fresh paint covers those up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for the quick reply.  This car is a 1955 Thunderbird.  It has a single groove marked on the rear pulley.  It looks to be TDC.  I found a problem earlier this morning with the carb.  The gasket and 1/4" plate under the carb was hanging up the choke linkage causing the throttle to stick.  I fixed that issue and the throttle is free.  I think this engine is in good shape.  I am going to put a vacuum gauge on it today and see what's going on.  I'll also buy a better timing light and dial in full advance around 38 degrees.  More later.

I set the timing light at 38 degrees fully advanced and locked down the distributor using the TDC line on the pulley.  I connected the vacuum gauge to the port in the back of the intake manifold.  At idle, the vacuum gunge reads about 17 pounds, right at the low end of the green zone.  The vacuum is steady with an immediate drop with throttle, then goes higher than normal and returns to 17 pounds.   The engine starts on the first turn.   If you rev the engine abruptly, it will backfire slightly through the carb.  Not enough to indicate anything is broken.   I have a feeling the timing is still not right.  I suppose I could have a worn timing chain.  Any ideas?

I'm pretty sure what I am dealing with is a vacuum leak as the engine will not idle down far enough. I didn't use any sealer on the intake gaskets except around the coolant holes.   I tightened up the intake again and the vacuum gauge reads right in the middle of the green. Shot some WD40 around the intake without any change in idle speed.   Hate to pull the intake off again, but it might be necessary.  '57 intake on 55 heads could be a mismatch.  Lots of fun!

I removed the manifold.  Upon further inspection, I would two sets of intake gaskets in the gasket kit.  One for the small ports and one for the larger ports.  I installed the small port gaskets with sealer this time.   Tightened everything down and timed it by ear.  The car starts, idles like a new car and revs with no backfires.  That great YBlock sound is back.  This car takes off like a jackrabbit and the front of the car raises up when you stab it.   Love the 3 speed with OD.   I'm going to drive it around like this while I build another 292 with an Isky cam and big heads.   Thanks for your help.  I'm sure I'll be back.

You have a lot more tuning to go  ; )   so far you're standard. You can change timing , pump cams , springs , jets .. gets better 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"