Bests bet is to call Pertronix and see what they say.

If you are going to a 57 distributor, you have to either change the carb or modify the teapot for the 57 distributor.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If you look up Pertronix website and find the catalog it shows yblocks 54-56 and then 57-74. This kinda gives me the impression the # listed for the 54-56 is a Loadmatic and 6 or 12 volts may not matter with the exception of the NG for neg ground or PG for positive ground which they as you to include giving they know the difference between the 54-55 and 56. There are different #'s for pertronix I or II. 57- up are a different #... I'd call.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

You might want to go to a 8 volt battery. Starts easier, lights brighter and horn is a lot louder. Still use your stock radio and do not have to change any lights.

Is the 6 Volt for the later Distributor or the Loadomatic? The 2 would not  be Interchangable.  

  

Pertronix lists a 6volt unit for ford yblocks. After you find the number I believe you add a suffix to it a NG or PG not sure. It is a possibility that the Loadmatic is also maintained. They are very good to work with and I have been to their facilities with a conversion to an aftermarket flathead distributor.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Everything in my car works fine with 6 volts, even the clock and radio.  I'm thinking about upgrading the motor and leaving the 6 volt system as it is.   If I install the '57 distributor with points and condenser, swap out the heads, manifold and carb, I should see a performer increase.  Does a 12 volts system make any more horsepower? 

Maybe it was the Pertronix, but when that happened to me on a conventional points system  I found out that I wired it incorrectly 




54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I wonder if a Bypass Wire from "I" Terminal on a later Solenoid with 2 small Terminals as used on 12 Volt Fords would have solved the Problem.? That would provide a full 6 Volts direct to Coil to start it. If it appeared to start when the Key was released to "Run" Position tells Me there was not 6 Volts available in the "Start" Position when the Key was turned. Just a Suggestion.. 


  

Mean dean, I've had that happen on a couple different cars. I don't know how your's was wired, but the coil wire thru the resistor has no voltage at cranking. Voltage to the points is supplied from the starter solenoid terminal on most 12 volts cars. I don't remember how my bird was wired before I changed it to 12 volts, so I don't remember if they used that terminal on the solenoid for 6 volts, or if the 6 v used a resistor. But it's happened to me on other makes where the ign sw doesn't have run or accessory in the start position. Was a shock when it started when released but not when cranking.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I am torn between better performance and originality.  My car is untouched.  It must have been in a can all it's life.  It looks like an older restoration as the paint has a few scratches here and there, but it's rust free and drives fine.  Mechanically, it's the same as it rolled off the showroom floor.  I'll probably switch over to 12 Volts, '57 distributor, '57 heads and Holley and keep all the original parts in a box.  It will be a much better performing and driving car, even if it's no longer original.